Peaks

Too many stories to tell. A picture is worth a thousand words. I think I've met the requirement. Hope you enjoy!!!

Hometown

I went to Bates College to watch the State High School Singles Tennis Tournament. I wanted to go out and hit a few myself. Oh well. Then I visited the skate park at Kennedy Park. Tony Hawk skated there on October 26th and donated $10,000 to the skate park. I wish I still had my board, I would have given it a shot and probably ended up in the hospital. I once signed a plate, Tony Hawk at Bouna Notte in Montreal. I believe it is displayed on the wall.


Getting Amped for Memorial Day Weekend, especially Reggae Fest on Sunday. This photo is from a few years ago. It has become a biannual tradition.

Granite State

I went down to The Wall in NH. By the time I got in the water, the waves were breaking much too close to the wall. This is a low tide spot. I proceeded on to Rye Rocks. The other day I wrote that being in a lineup with 35 people is pressure. Again, I was mistaken. Pressure is being in the water with 5 other people all who have shortboards. These guys were doing cutbacks and one guy in particular was doing 360's on the wave. I couldn't go after anything. I had no right being out there. As I continued up the coast, I saw Jenness Beach. That's where I should have been.



I pearled hard (intentionally) at The Wall, just to get out of there. And I got on my knees twice at Rye Rocks because when I asked the other guys if there was anything to watch out for they told me, "just make sure you don't go in head first." The call it Rye Rocks for a reason. I didn't dare pop up in fear of pearling.

Both pictures are at The Wall--the second one is obviously The Wall

Feel the calmness, feel the stillness

I had to go in to the office today to tie up some loose ends. The mailman asked, "Dave, why aren't you surfing?" I called a customer who has some product to pick up. We couldn't agree on a time and she asked, "why, are you going surfing?" Her daughter is a surfer.

At yoga last night, during one pose, Melora (instructor) said, "feel the calmness, feel the stillness." I tried to transfer that to the waves. I was on fire today. I was surfing with a girl who has been surfing for 20 years and she gave me advice on making the turn. My last ride, I did a backside turn.

When leaving she needed help getting out of her wetsuit. When I pulled the sleeve off, she popped out of her bikini top. She didn't even know and kept talking to me--it was kinda awkward. Then I spent the rest of the day on the beach with friends in Old Orchard...it was 87 degrees today

How Bizarre

The waves may be free, but as of today the parking isn't. I didn't have it today--no balance. Maybe I was overly confident after yesterday. There were birds flying all around and nose diving into the water. I guess they were fishing. Well I must have been watching them too much because I had a couple of pearl dives myself.

Like the Little Engine That Could, I kept plugging away (while exhausted) and caught a good one in. "Want to know the rest? Hey, buy the rights."

Living the Dream

This morning I was doing Uttihita Trikonasana. Tonight I'm cacthing waves.

When I first got to Higgins there were 35 surfers in the lineup. Pressure. I waited and watched. The others weren't letting the wave grab 'em. I've been there. I caught the first two I went after...a real confidence booster in a lineup. Two guys starting going after and hogging every wave. I would let them take 'em and grab the one right behind. This worked out well because they were real locals. Because I had good etiquette and more importantly I didn't make a stink...they started talking to me in the water and giving me pointers. It's like Namaste. I waited for a long time for my last wave...I was not gonna paddle in and I'm glad I waited because the last wave rocked!

Tomorrow, I reverse the order. Surf in the morning and Yoga in the evening. I think the title says it all.

Fortunes

Went to Fotunes Rocks...it was in between tides. I got some nice waves, mostly the waves were wherever I wasn't. I am catching more waves than missing and I am starting to hit the drop regularly. Now, I have to learn the bottom turn so I can trim.

Good thing I got the 9.4 board and not the 9.6, if I had I would not have any room to store it, I am maxed out at 9.4


Final stop of the day I hit the store. When leaving, I see an Aquaholics (surf shop) truck loaded with boards drive by. As I walk out the guy shoots me a shaka. I guess I must have looked like a surfer.

Tiny Dancer

"Ballerina, you must have seen her dancing in the sand
And now she's in me, always with me, tiny dancer in my hand"

Samantha performed in "Field of Flowers" and she did very well!!! My tiny dancer was also a Little Page in the Nutcracker Ballet with the Maine State Ballet last holiday season.

The Wanderer

I went surfing at Gooch's Beach in Kennebunk today. This is a very pretty little cove. It was knee-waist high. I picked up a lot of tips by watching other surfers. I was paddling way too early. I also figured out when to pop up. Paddle, paddle, paddle until the wave grabs you. Things started falling into place today. I had one ride where I was actually holding my right rail with my left hand. I did not consciously do this, but hey...I see that in my surfer magazines.

Wow! As I was driving out, the winding Beach Avenue brings you from one outstanding beach to another. It is quaint, picturesque, beautiful....breath-taking New England!!! I would put the Kennebunk Beach Area ahead of the Port.

No fooling around. I get home (I did eat en route) and there were perfect conditions. I changed right in the parking lot. I hit the first two waves I went after. Then I started to cramp up. So I waited and picked the wave I was gonna grab in and sure enough I rode it home. I know, I know, but the Ocean and the waves are very alluring like the Sirens. It is especially difficult to stay away. I think I may put a 4 hr grace period in place.

"Just what you wanted, so you can feel the high"

My cup of tea

I have had plenty of time to watch the waves and I have determined that knee high to waist high is perfect for me. With that being said, it is still fun to chase the bigger stuff!

Afternoon Delight

While chillin' on the beach I met a surfer girl who is renting a house for the summer right down the street.

On my way to surf this afternoon, I bumped into a contractor working in the building. He said, "hope you have better luck today, I saw you almost got washed into those rocks". Great! So I caught about 1 1/2 waves if you can call it that. Old Orchard is either really flat or pretty rough. When I was leaving I was talking to another girl who is having the same problem as me...getting through the break.

I had a great spot too and then some p-dog comes right out and starts snakin' my waves. He had an old lady on the beach zip him up--pffff. Anyway I ask him, "you're goin' right, right?" Which would have been great 'cause I just cruise in. Go figure, he's goofy.

Morning Session

The scariest part of surfing--the commute. I get so nervous watching my board bounce up and down and slide side to side on my roof as I am driving. I drive in the slow lane and big rigs pass me. I usually pull over at least once to re-secure the straps. The hardest part of surfing--zipping up the wetsuit.

It was good out there today. I stayed on the inside as it was rough. I am having troubles paddling through the oncoming waves. I have to learn to find the channel. My best ride is difficult to explain. After the popup it was as though my board was an inch above the wave so I moved forward and boom down the face--it was awesome.

I think I may have the meanest changing towel. Check it out. I picked this up in Huntington Beach. Today was the first time I used it--much simpler than the dress of a towel I had been using.


There are some nice waves at home right now, but we know better than that. Once bitten, twice shy! Maybe this afternoon. Looks like there are a few honeys on the beach so I guess I'll just go plop a beach chair and chill.

That's what I'm talkin' about

I knew it was gonna be a good day when I woke up and I could hear the waves rumbling. So I went to ole faithful, Higgins. Surprisingly, nothing. I called my lookout in Pine Point, nothing. I decided to hike it down to Long Sands in York. I couldn't believe my eyes, it was out of control. The sets were non-stop and I was the only one there. Caught a lot of waves. I hit one drop, did one kickout, but mostly a lot of cruising. That's what I do on my big banana boat. As I was leaving, people were honking their horns and throwing me shakas--that was cool.

Upon arriving home, I started to lick my chops. Old Orchard was huge--I had to hit it. Unfortunately, it was too big for me. I didn't catch one ride, I just got tossed. It was a good learning lesson. I was way too tired and hadn't eaten all day. In fact, I was dangerously close to some rocks and I simply couldn't get out of the way. I thought for sure the wave was gonna throw me and my board into the rocks and snap my board. Some how, some way, the wave carried me and my board over the rocks. Lesson learned! I should have known better, the waves in Maine drift you to the left, so start on the left of the rocks Einstein.

Anyway, it was a great day and the girl at the surf shop says tomorrow is gonna be even better and 80 degrees to boot.

I was so spent after the OOB episode that I came in and took a bath. How funny is that. Now I'm just chillin with some green tea and gearin up for tomorrow.

Oh, Thank Heaven

All reports came up flat but I had nothing better to do so I went round and round.
While picking up my first Large Red Bull of the day, Cherie at 7-11 told me steel was showing through my tires. So off to get new slippahs for the surfmobile. Check out the surfmobile hangin 10 (with board in tow)

Then I went to Fortunes Rock, Old Orchard, Pine Point, Higgins and Scarborough Beach. Nothing, nothing, nothing, nothing and nothing. When I was at Higgins, I met a couple of Canadians from Quebec. They come down here to surf. How sick is that? They must be bummin'. Fortunately, there is suppose to be some good action tomorrow.

Oh while picking up my second Large Red Bull--the lady at the register said, "you look like you're on vacation." Lately, a lot of people have told me that I look really relaxed. Little do they know, I'm chillaxen!

Sunday Drive

I went to visit my neighbor in Kennebunk so we took the coastal route home, plus I wanted to scope out Fortune's Rock Beach. No surf, as expected but I got a good lay of the land and talked to a few locals.

Considering the lack of activity, I really should start my sailing lessons.

Notta

I've been home watching the waves all week--NOTHING. It is very painful to see my wetsuit on a daily basis hanging in the shower. Still I watch and wait.

Thunderstruck

Right before going into Yoga, "That's Alright Mama" came on the radio. So I was juiced for my session. We had a very intense session and I left the class re-focused, re-dedicated and re-energized. I forgot how hand in hand Yoga and surfing go together. Missing Yoga has hurt me in many ways, but now I am excited to put the two disciplines together. Even my instructor told me that there is a feature in Yoga Journal right now talking about Yoga and Surfing--I'm gonna have to check it out.

Slippahs are convenient for Yoga as well!

"And I try"

"Oh my God, do I try," I'm just not that good. I was out there a long time today, maybe a little too long. I should have left much earlier when I caught a really nice ride, but I didn't. I dream of the day when I leave Higgins, come home and catch some waves in Old Orchard. Today is close but not quite.

Condo For Sale. I am considering selling my Condo and moving to Higgins--that's where the waves are.

When I was at Tahiti Nui on my birthday, the band, Rock Candy, played that song. Most of you know I like that one, dating back to my Boston years. And tomorrow "I try" as I go to yoga for the first time in a while. I'm not too good at that either--I got held back to the beginners class..."and I try."

"I scream from the top of my lungs, what's goin' on!"

Paddle, paddle, paddle

I caught a half dozen waves today--more than usual. I am now reminded...Kimi in La Jolla and Drew in Kaua'i would bark at me, " paddle, paddle, paddle!" I'm starting to get it.

So I'm wrapping up my session by changing and out of nowhere is a girl. This seems to be a common occurrence. So much so that I am considering ditching surfing altogether and just start getting in and out of my wetsuit all day long. No, who am I kidding? I'll be surfing tomorrow.

Newton's First Law of Motion

A body at rest will remain at rest... And a body in motion will remain in motion...
I hit three nice rides today but missed a boat load. I even did a few baby turns. Back to the subject at hand. I am missing a ton of waves because I am a body at rest. I need to paddle much harder to get my board/body in motion to match the speed of the oncoming wave. I am sure if I can get boogeying I will catch the waves. There is a lot of stuff to put together. I left after a good ride. That's the object, to always leave after a good ride...never paddle in.

"It's been a long time since I..."

Since last Saturday actually when I left on a high note. After that outing I got a little boo-boo and Dr. Caroline Foust-Wright, gynecologist, (long story) recommended I stay out of the water for a little bit. So I was back at it today and my first ride was really good--I should have left. Up, down--weeble wabble--up, down all day. I got some advice from some short-boarders. Two hours later, I caught my second ride. My timing was off all day, I even dropped my towel when changing. At least it looks as though the Vaseline helped with my wetsuit rash!