Trying To Avoid The DL

There were some nice waves last night and this morning. Unfortunately, I messed up my back pretty good. Was bedridden all day yesterday and am on a healthy dose of ibuprofen, ben gay, and a mix of heat and ice. Next on the list--acupuncture or Reiki.

Feeling much better today. Well I'm moving around anyway. Hopefully I'll be back in action tomorrow. Like I said...anything to avoid being placed on the DL.

Woody Skimboard

My Victoria "Woody" came UPS today. Out of the box and time for a test ride. It was high tide, not ideal conditions. What a difference having the proper equipment makes. So I was cruising down the bank and into the waves. Even doing 180's--not by choice. Got rocked a few times--more than a few. I think I'll do alright at low tide--provided of course there are no waves. Tweaked my back real good on one spill!

Clustered & Flustered

The paddle out was brutal. At one point my leash was so entwined with seaweed that I wasn't even moving. I was about to give up and call it a day, but forged ahead. Finally, I got out to the lineup. The whole Higgins gang was talking about where they surfed yesterday at the Ube (OOB)--Union, 5th, 11th...

It was so crowded with boogie boarders, stand up paddlers, etc there was hardly room to breath. One SUP guy was right next to me and starts to paddle right for my board then rolls his eyes as he misses the wave 'cause I'm in the way. Come on! I had enough. Caught one wave in and called it quits. Just way too congested.

It's good though. You need a session like that to cut you down in size.

Surfers Delight

There have been surfers in the water since 6:30 this morning and there is still one guy out there. Nice off-shore winds all day long. Tonight's session was fun. A lot of slow peelers!

I am exhausted. Big Wave is gonna sleep like a baby tonight. Looks like tomorrow is gonna be good too. Over and out!

Freakin'

Just caught my four sickest, fastest, longest waves. Caught one sweet left where the wave was just holding up. I was so high on the face and it went on and on. On another, I was going right, did a mean bottom turn, started climbing the face (a guy paddling out was hootin'--as you know, always cool) and then trimmed the s**t out of the wave.

There was one girl in the line-up who recognized me from my Christmas Day session. Back then she was giving me tips on turning. Anyway she said I've come a long way in a short time. That's encouraging!

Then a man in a gray suit breached about 10 feet in front of us. I was freakin'. Put my arms on my board and my feet in the air. Caught the next train outta town.

Goin' back out in a little bit. Hurricane Season Rocks!!! When's the next one scheduled?

Somethin' Is A Brewin'

I'm on my biggest, baddest, meanest wave ever (overhead). It's lining up perfectly. I'm riding high on the face, in the curl getting ready to make my drop...What!!! There's a guy paddling out in the trough. Pfff, I pull out the backside--don't even know how I did this. He apologized and said that was the best wave of the day.... I was a bit gun shy after that 'cause I can't really take off and then slice through surfers in surf that size. Anyway, I caught a few, but nothing like the one that got away.

Action should be good around 5:30...I think somethin' is a brewin'!

Downgraded

Irene has been downgraded to a Tropical Storm for Maine. There will be no surf today, but there should be some really good action Monday & Tuesday (there always is after a storm). Don't tell that to these 3 cats though. They can't even walk with their boards let alone get into the surf. The girl with the green board is the one who did the switch stance at Higgins last week.

Drove by Camp Ellis this morning. They are gonna get whacked--they always do. An incoming wave crashed on the rocks and hit my car. It's not even big out there yet and they are getting that.

They radio broadcast said stay away from the ocean at all costs. Um, slight problem...I live at the ocean. Last night with the weather as calm as could be hundreds of seagulls took flight seeking refuge. Funny how animals know these things. They must have heard the same radio broadcast I heard.

Trooper

The day before Irene is scheduled to hit, Fred went out for his first surf lesson. This was his boat (courtesy of Barry). Unfortunately, I think this board had issues--making things difficult. I'm real proud of Fred. He pearled like a pro. When he was done, he unzipped his wetsuit and let it hang from his waist while walking the beach--another pro maneuver. I think he may have been nibbling on the magic mushrooms prior to his session--old school surf!

After the lesson, I hit a few waves. Was rockin' the Marley Boardshorts. Gotta give 'em some action before Reggae Sunday next week. Higgins is calling for triple overhead tomorrow. That's 18 foot waves.

Get Prepared

That's all I've been hearing on the news and reading on the internet. Get prepared for Irene. So I took their advice and went out surfing. I wanna be ready when she comes. Waves were stacked, almost canceling each other out. Not much happening. Pretty bad action. Then I caught one and said to myself..."time to go." I was riding backside and walked the board!!! I got up to the nose and didn't really know what to do so I hung there for a bit and then bailed. I did this twice!!! Backside no less--I've told you before, I do everything backwards.

"If you don't know how to do it, I'll show you how to walk the" board.

Captain's Log

Went flying with my neighbor, Bill. Once I saw the size of his plane, I began to feel a bit uneasy as my nerves kicked in. During the pre-flight inspection, Bill explained the parts of the plane and thoroughly described the gauges on the instrument panel. We charted a course to Boothbay Harbor via Sebago Lake. As we were approaching the BNAS, Air Traffic Control came on and told us to be on the look out because the Blue Angels were in the area. Although we didn't see them, Samantha did. We took the coastal route home--passing Two Lights Cape Elizabeth, Peaks Island, Portland Head Light, Higgins, and finally the world-famous Old Orchard Beach Pier.
Thank you for flying the friendly skies.

Unbelievable

Last night when there was nothing even resembling a wave, there were 9 people in the water. This morning the waves are off the hook and I'm the only one out there. Finally a kid came out. He was insane--walking the board, hanging ten. He gave me a really good tip for walking the board, but I was too spent at that point. When you're the only one out there you get tired real quick.

Walking back I see this kid rocking the skim board. He has a totally different technique where he hums the board ahead of him and hauls after it and drops in to the board (just like surfing) right before it stops skimming. His momentum shoots the thing. This little French boy gave me a lot of good tips and he spoke English extremely well.

Scaredy Cat

I was in the water for a half hour. It was choppy and not much period between waves. Then a dark ominous cloud settled overhead. I was afraid. I wanted to get out of there as fast as possible so I rode some white water in (with no shame). As soon as I left, there was a deluge. To make matters worse, it seemed as though I was driving right into the lightning. I know they say a car is one of the safest places to be during a lightning storm, but let me tell you I was fearful. I don't believe I have ever been so afraid.

This scaredy cat is thankful to be home.

Don't Believe Everything You Read

What a beautiful day. Had to hit the beach. So I brought my skimboard (2nd attempt). Read a bunch of info online. It read...do not throw the board ahead of you. I'm trying without much success. Then a little girl, Molly from Hollywood tells me that I've got to throw the board ahead of me. Sure enough I catch about 6-8 rides. After the first one, I threw my arms up in the air...almost like making a claim.

Check out John Miwae. This kid is a slugger. He's only 6 years old. I asked his dad his name, 'cause I wanna say I saw him when he was just a tyke, before he makes the show. Seriously if this kid keeps it up, you will hear of him in about 12-15 years. Not the best pic, but this kid was knockin' every one out of the park.

Downright Awful

That pretty much sums up the conditions tonight. It would have been better if it was totally flat. That way I wouldn't have been tempted to go out. Pulled a similar turn to last nights party wave. There was this one girl who was riding regular foot and switched stance to goofy while riding the wave. I talked to her afterward and she gave me some tips on walking the board. Plus she was surfing in a bikini....of course I made conversation. She's stoked that she's gonna be on the blog.

Good Vision

Pretty much mush out there tonight. So every half-decent wave that came through was a party wave. I pop-up and am going left only to see a guy going right (headed straight toward me). I turn (in what feels like slow motion) 180 degrees and am now going right, only to see another guy going left (headed straight toward me). He wipes out and I do a bottom turn right around him. That's tonight's highlight reel. I certainly couldn't have done that a year ago. Back then, I woulda been freakin'. Although I wouldn't have been hangin' in the center of the lineup either. I woulda been out on the shoulder.

Devirginized

It's official. My new car is now a surfmobile. Went to Higgins tonight. Saw Lincoln (Peaks Associate), Peru, and a lot of familiar faces. This was just on the walk down to the ocean. I counted at least 50 people in the water. I was picking and choosing my waves and slicing through surfers. I caught a wave right at the peak and a guy said to me, "sweet takeoff." One my very next ride, I was right there in the pocket again and this time he was hooting. That's always cool!

Poor Timing

Went out a bit late, but still caught some good rides. I rocked one frontside (right) where I was really working the wave--had a sweet bottom turn and continued up the face. I'm supposed to hit to Zumba tonight...hmmm, we'll see...waves look like they'll still be cookin'

Baby Waves

My neighbor told me there were some good waves so I went out. They were baby waves. But that's alright. I caught three nice rides--trimming and a bunch of well I don't know...I guess you'd call 'em get up and go.

I missed my hike with Fred this morning. Man, I feel awful. Hopefully he will allow me to catch up with him another time. He hiked Mahoosuc Notch, the toughest mile of the entire Appalachian Trail. I've told you before he's no nonsense.

Double Dipping

My gear was still wet from the morning session. One guy said it's been flat for the past two months. Ain't that the truth!!! Caught about a half-dozen rides and two nice drops, then my arms were wet noodles. So I rode in on my belly. Kinda reminded me of when I was out at Mondos in March 2010.

Network

A former colleague called me this morning to let me know there was some good action at Higgins. I hated to burst his bubble but told him about the webcam. No need to travel. We had some mean waves in OB. Caught my first one, a nice right, then I was missing everything in sight. Finally got my groove on and rocked a couple lefts. On one, I was zooming and dropped into the wave three times. Actually did a couple of kickouts today.

Might be some more action in a few hours!!!

Outta Nowhere

I thought there would be some action around 1:00--but nothing. So I watched a lot of Pipeline. I noticed they pop-up real early. Gives you more time to work on the wave right. Anyway outta nowhere, waves start coming in at high tide. The water was so warm. I wish I woulda been in boardshorts. It was really warm.

Tourists Go Home

Sweet little waves here today, but way too many people (wading) in the water. Debating between Baja California (I'm all set with that noise) and Nova Scotia (although no more CAT) for my next surfari.

OPS

Outta Paddling Shape--Whew. Boy was it a workout today. Everyone was out there, 'cause we've all been jonesin' hard. Choppy and sloppy, but they were waves.

Enough Already

I can't take it anymore. Woulda been a good summer for stand up paddling, but I ain't down with that. So what's Big Wave to do? I don't know. Sounds like it's time for a surfari. That's right--surfari time. And while you mull that over...don't forget, it's International Beer Day.

"You see I raise a toast to all of us
Who are breakin' our backs every day
If wantin' the good life is such a crime
Lord, then put me away
Here's to ya"

Went to go see "Cinderella" Tonight. Here's my little Lady in Waiting!

More Of The Same

No waves. Besides it's shark week on the Discovery Channel. I'm not sure I wanna go back in the water anyway. Pretty scary stuff.

Good news is I'm rollin' around town incognito. The popo don't recognize me in the new surfmobile. Now we've just gotta find some waves.

Well which is it Big Wave? Are you afraid to go in or are you looking for waves? BOTH!!!