Nice Sets

Finally I rocked OOB!!! The sets were coming in nice and deep. About 6 deep and waist to shoulder high. For those of you who know where I live...I was catching waves at the hotel on one side of my building and riding 'em to the house on the other side. That's a good little stretch.

I got tossed hard on one attempt and my skeg hit me in the thigh. I know it doesn't look like much, but I was bleeding and I watched Shark Week. I'm sure I'll have a bruise tomorrow. Anyway, since I was bleeding I caught the next ride out of town!

Just Think

I almost didn't surf tonight. I was sluggish as I woke from my afternoon nap and was considering calling out. I'm glad I didn't...I had my best session yet. I hit the first five waves I chased and rocked 'em all. Wow, "Flying High Again"!!!

Good Things Come To Those Who Wait

Like I told the guys in the line up. "I've been paddling all morning and haven't caught a thing...but once you catch that first ride...it's all good!!!" Man, I paddled at least an hour before I caught a wave. Eventually, I caught three really cool rides. On one, the wave turned to white water and it was like I was shot out of a cannon--real sweet!!!

Went to town hall...they don't handle Scarborough Beach. It is a State Beach/Private Beach so I am gonna write the local Surfriders Foundation to voice my concerns and hopefully institute change.

Fred wants to go kayaking in the afternoon. That's my nap time.

Delivering The Goods

Started the day off at yoga. It's difficult to explain, but yoga is really cool! My teacher is great. She is so soothing and calming. I will miss this yoga class the most when I move to Hawaii!!!

This afternoon, we had a Luau at my Condo. Someone asked, "Hey Big Wave are you making a statement with your hair?" No statement. I don't cut it because I don't have to.

Hit my biggest wave tonight about head high. While dropping into the wave, the front end of my board was bouncing "rat-a-tat-tat" off the face. I didn't do much else other than hit the drop. I had to catch it. There were at least 75 people in the lineup. Once I committed to the wave, I had to own it.

So I figured out tonight...I hit the drop on bigger waves and that's about all I can do because I am anxious. I trim the wave on smaller stuff because there is no drop per se so I can work the wave.

Closeout Sale

It was nasty on the outside, the waves were closing out hard. When it's not nice outside, play inside. I went outside for a little bit and got barrelled so I came inside where the waves were a lot cleaner. I caught a bunch of rides, unlike the lemmings outside. I hit two sweet rides at the end on the night!!!

The parking lot was full. I asked Svetlana, the parking lot attendant, "they have no idea how much money you took in today, do they?" Svetlana looked at me, smiled and said, "how knows?"

I have a beef to take up with Scarborough Beach stemming from my morning session. Everyone at the surf shop loves my idea. I'll fill you in about it on Monday when I go to town hall. Surfer/Activist Big Wave Dave

Surfing Police

See! Higgins Beach has surfing po-po. I was in the water when a Dad with two kids said, "here they come". I told him we had to catch a wave in despite the time. He liked that. We couldn't come in if there was no wave to bring us in. And we waited...

Boogie Wonderland

I went to Higgins where the crowd was too big for waves that were too small. So, I boogied back home to catch some waves. I have to learn that when the waves are good at home--stay home!!! I've been telling myself this for weeks, but I always chase bigger waves. I have to remember...."a bird in hand".

So my neighbor is out on his balcony when I go after my first couple of waves where I pearl and pearl again. To my neighbors, my surfing tales must be like those of Mr. Snuffleupagus. After a couple pearls, I started catching waves. I trimmed the wave twice. I always tell you how fun hitting a drop is...well trimming the wave is really cool. If only I could combine the two.

Kiss It

I catch the first wave I go after. I'm turning right. There's another guy on the wave turning left...we are on a collision course. We both bailed! I'm not sure whose wave it was. I am way too passive in the lineup and was even more so after that. The woman with the little boy's haircut, on the otherhand, is way too aggressive out there.

Alright now I'm standing atop the wave. I begin to lean forward to hit the drop. Wham, I go flying off my board and my face and ribs smack the water at the same time. It felt like I hit a brick wall.

Pine Point

Who's Bummin'? Not me. Deena gets a shoutout!!! She gave me a nice little stretch for my calf. I went to Pine Point. I see the same cats wherever I go. I surfed a few blocks to the right of these pictures where the waves were breaking waist to chest high--good times.

Walking back on the beach, I see a photographer taking pictures of some hotties. I ask what they are shooting. It is the Pearl Girls Calendar. The owner of Pearl tells me I know the girls...funny thing is, I do. I didn't recognize them all dolled up. They took a few shots with my board. If you get the Pearl Girls Calendar--look for my board.

Bummin'

Yesterday, today, and tomorrow are the biggest and best waves of the Season. I tore my calf yesterday while jumping back on my board to paddle out. I can barely walk today. I am bummin' to say the least. The waves are so sweet and I want nothing more than to go out and surf. I went to watch the guys surf at Higgins this morning. They were shredding it on some good-sized waves. So, I'll probably be out of action for Yoga this weekend as well--another bummer. Which leads me to my next thought. In sports it is the end result that counts. For example...Jimmy Connors, Roger Federer, and Monica Seles all have drastically different forehands, but all equally effective. In Iyengar Yoga, however, it is the totality of the form/pose. There is no room for individual expression or freedom, yet you find inner freedom that is truly liberating. Do you know who the best surfer is? The one who has the most fun. So I guess yoga and surfing is a mutualistic relationship. Tight structure and total freedom. I will miss 'em both and be Bummin'.

Head High

I may apply for the surfing forecast position at Magic Sea Weed. These guys are worse than the weatherman. They were calling for double overhead conditions (12 feet).

This morning I hit a 5 foot (shoulder high) drop. Tonight, the conditions were head high to overhead. The waves were powerful and there was a serious undertow. During one turtle roll the wave ripped the board right out of my hands. I was hanging way outside--which took forever(a shorter board is not far off). While trying to bob a wave and avoid it, the wave spun me around and threw me on my belly down the face. It was cool. I was riding my board on my stomach. After a little bit like this, I figured I might as well pop up and still rode it for a good stretch.

Stupid...Crazy...Fun

During the past two days, I have driven six times from Old Orchard to Higgins to Scarborough--passing on the waves at each spot. Tonight I settled on Higgins where the waves were smaller than the ones I have been blowing off (Stupid), but I was itchin'. After the sun had set, I surfed about an hour and a half under the moonlight (Crazy). There were four of us out there and one kayaker. One guy asked how long we could stay out there and I told him this was the latest I had ever been out and continued to explain my "no paddle in" rule. Even after I caught one in, I kept going back out...It was Fun.

On the way home, I got stuck in traffic. In my rear-view mirror, I noticed a display of fireworks. All the while I am listening to Rachmaninov's Piano Concerto #2. From my side-view mirror it was as though I was watching the fireworks in HD. It was mesmerizing.

This picture is taken right after tonight's surf. Crazy...Fun.

Il Dolce Far Niente

"No I ain't doin' much,
Doin' nothin' means a lot to me"

"Many dreams come true and some have silver linings,
I live for my dream and a pocketful of gold"

Il Dolce Far Niente (The Sweetness of Doing Nothing)

Shoulda Gone Surfing Tonight

Instead I went to Yoga where Melora (not my regular instructor) was teaching. She tore me apart on almost every pose. I did, however, silence her with my Uththita Trikonasana and my Virabhadrasana II.

Sound Off

I went to Scarborough Beach today. I set up to the right of a buoy. While watching the waves, I hear this air horn going off--oh well. I catch my first ride all the way to shore and the life guard is blowing the horn at me, telling me to stay to the left of the buoy.

What a rude and indecent crowd out there. The people had no regard for etiquette. They would go after every single wave. I have been to a few legitimate surf spots and I can tell you that they would get pounded. Guys and girls alike. I would let a "clean out" wave go by. It didn't matter. They kept going after everything. After a while I said the heck with it (actually I said something else that also ended with it). I went after the next wave regardless of everyone else. I hit a nice drop and worked the wave all the way to shore where I had to stall out to avoid a boogey boarder. In the end, I continued to follow the Surfer's Code. I may not have been one of the better surfers out there, but I was the only one who wasn't a KOOK!

This picture is from the first time I went to Scarborough Beach. My viewers have indicated to me that they enjoy the blogs containing photos.

Washing Machine, Spin Cycle

Turtle, turtle, trounced! Turtle, turtle, trounced! I went trough this spin cycle over and over again. You can't ride the waves when they closeout. At least I can't. Finally, I rode the whitewater a few times. I guess that's all you can do in closeout conditions--ride the foam. I hope none of my neighbors saw me, they'll think my surfing blog is a sham.

Getting Worked

Started the day off in child's pose at yoga. I was looking to take a breather from this pose. For those of you who don't know, child's pose is a resting pose. Then I got worked each time I paddled out. It's tough stuff getting to the lineup with a longboard when waves are crashing. Peru told me that the Ocean was confused--the way the waves were coming in. Walking back to my car a toddler pointed and said, "you have a boat?." Even this small child knew my board was huge.

Getting Better

This Peruvian guy was asking me why I started surfing. I must look old for a beginner. He thinks I should get a shortboard. He is gonna let me try his when the waves are a little bigger. I've seen him out there a few times. Two other guys ask me what the waves are gonna be like tomorrow (like I know). I think people are starting to recognize me at Higgins. Anyway, I rode the shoulder for the first time tonight. I stayed up there a little too long. I should've attempted a top turn. Hey one step at a time.


How bout Fred. He hiked Clingman Dome on Monday. Clingman is the highest point of the entire Appalachian Trail, located in Tennessee's Smoky Mountains. Although the picture doesn't look like much, it is the summit.

Tiny Waves

Boy was it small out there today. I had to hit it 'cause it seems like forever since I've been surfing. I had to wait long spells just to catch an ankle bitter. Finally, some knee-highs came and I was able to work on the turn. On my final wave I actually turned frontside, caught trim and then did another turn into shore.

"We are all smaller than the sea and bigger than ourselves when we ride the waves."- Dorian Paskowitz, PH.D.

Not Anymore

I used to be anti dentite, but not anymore. My dental hygienist is really cool. She remembered that I went to Hawaii, did yoga, pilates.... She asked if I was gonna surf in the winter. When I told her I was, she said, "ooh it's gonna be cold". I told her, "not in Hawaii". She thinks the whole wwoofing idea is awesome.

Caught one wave tonight where I made the turn and was trimming the wave. I could see the wave was about to closeout. I didn't know if I could stay up during the closeout. I guess that would have been the spot to try a cutback (yeah right).

When I got home there were two firetrucks, two ambulances and two police officers in the driveway. No wonder my taxes are so high. Someone in the building burned some food.

Shoulda Hit Yoga Tonight

If this wasn't a family friendly forum, I would have a few choice words about tonight's session. I was going for a wave, but someone already owned it and hollered, "look out". I stopped paddling and intentionally pearled. I didn't know what else to do. He caught the ride and came back all upset. I'm still fuming. I went to another spot--I'm in the way, they're in the way...just way too many people out there tonight. I really wanted to get out of there and come in, but you know the rules. Never paddle in. So I stayed out there. One wave, the drop was so steep--my board was vertical and I involuntarily dove in ahead of my board. I mean I was up and then went flying. I'm not sure what that's called. I don't think it's a pearl??? I'm so revved right now, I can't even remember the morning session--probably got barrelled, who knows?

Slow Motion

I went to watch Samantha perform in Peter Pan on Friday. She was a lost boy. In the first picture she is supposed to be hiding from Captain Hook. Good thing Hook has bad eyes.

Hit my biggest drop tonight. I was petrified atop the wave, then everything went in slow motion as I rode down the face of the wave...

Screw Loose

What a drag when you wake up at 5:00 am to go surfing and the report is dead wrong--no waves. I feel totally defeated lugging my gear back up. If that weren't bad enough, the conditions tonight were awful. Yet, I went out to catch a few anyway. While wrapping up my leash, I noticed that the screw which fastens the fin to the board was gone. Luckily, I found a hardware store still open so I can catch the waves in the morning. The waves are supposed to be chest high--if the report is right.

How 'bout when talking to my dad, he tells me he has to go 'cause the popo is right behind him. How funny is that? My dad says the popo.

And I'll Do It Again

Same routine as yesterday. Hit the home surf in the morning and Higgins at night. Waves were chest high at both spots. When coming in from my morning session, my neighbor asked if I had my fill for the day. I told him, "just gearing up for tonight". He said, "really?".

"Got a feeling inside (Can't explain)
It's a certain kind (Can't explain)...
Yeah, down in my soul, yeah (Can't explain)"

Training Grounds

There's nothing better than surfing in the morning. Unless of course you're gonna surf in the evening as well!!!

Small stuff at home proved to be training grounds for the bigger stuff at Higgins. Higgins wasn't as big as predicted but still decent. While surfing in the morning and waiting for waves, the guy next to me said..."beats working". Ain't that the truth!

Business is Good

Whenever I see John, local 7-11 proprietor, he asks, "how's business?". I try to explain to him that we're done, but he doesn't seem to get it so tonight I told him, "surfing is my business and business is good". After what was to be the last wave of the night, I paddled out to catch another. I did this about ten times. Probably 'cause it had been a while since I've been out. I hope to be up tomorrow to catch dawn patrol.