LWD

Little Wave Dave reporting. Man do I struggle out there. Little waves and still no luck. I caught one decent left and then a long, long wait.....I begin having self-doubt.

Finally, last wave of the day, I rock a right. Arlene, better than the one you saw. A lot of pain and agony for a glimpse, a tease...and now I wait for the next time out.

The Holiday 20 may not be helping me on the board, but it should provide insulation for the Lobster Dip tomorrow at High Noon.

Happy New Year's--Hopefully 2012 brings us better waves.

Goldie Locks

Missing The Goldie Locks!!!

And Don't Deny Me

Shortly after the morning session I see a guy shoot out the barrel. I give a hoot and throw a shaka even though he can't hear or see me. I'm stoked seeing this guy rock it. So I run a few errands and then back out.

All I'm thinking is "don't deny me"...."don't turn your back on me, I won't be ignored."  Well I wasn't ignored. I got thrashed again and again and was definitely denied. Two session, no rides....

"I get stupified."

Crushed

The wind was fierce last night. I thought my patio furniture would come flying through my window. So what does that have to do with surfing? Killer-Mean-Waves today!

The paddle out was brutal. Every time I turtled, my board was ripped out of my hands. First Attempt--Banzai! I went flying head first out front of my board. I felt the leash yank my leg and saw the board tombstone as I surfaced.

Alright, I'm up on a mean wave--making the drop when my front foot slides off the board. Wax on, wax off Danielson. Man, that woulda been a sweet one.  Next try, I get barrelled over the falls, held under and whack my head on the board. That's when I decided it was time to go. Gotta give respect to Mother Nature when she's spanking you.

You've heard of the Freshman 15? Well I don't think the the Holiday 20 helped matters any.

Naughty or Nice

I must have been naughty because I didn't get any waves. Boo Hoo.

Can You Imagine

Can you Imagine!!! Just hoping for some action tomorrow. That would make two Christmas Day sessions in a row. One can only hope. Santa, please bring me some waves tomorrow. I've been a very good boy. If you bring some waves, I will leave some milk and cookies.

Charlie Brown

My mom would be disappointed with my Charlie Brown Christmas tree, but you have to admit--that's one helluva background!

Christmas Card

There will be no Christmas Card this year. Just not in the works.  There are people who ride horses on the beach. I hooked up with these people and got their number. I told them what I was planning to do. I called last week and got a bogus number.

So If you can use your imagination, this would have been the card.

Riding a horse on the beach in my boardshorts, holding a surfboard while the horse did a "Hi Ho Silver."

Merry Christmas to all!

Ball-Z South

Given the current state of affairs, I should relocate to Ball-Z South. There's no waves here and there are no waves there. At least at Ball_Z South there are dolphins, warm weather and a lot of honeys!!! I like the honeys part. Plus, I could hit the Men's Room.

Seriously reconsidering location,

Coincedence

I think so. Since I got my new board there have been absolutely no waves. Yeah, I think it's the board.

All I Want For Christmas

Is some waves. Oh, and maybe a GoPro HD Hero.

Nice Slow Rollers

Waves were coming in nice and really pealing. Does that mean I could do something? No. I take solace in the fact that they say it takes two to three years to get good at surfing. I mean, I have to cling on to some sort of hope.

Matter of Fact

 It is said, "'In this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes." I would like to add that. I will be in a board meeting  on January 14, March 17, April 21, May 19, and June 9; there will be good waves on those days. This too, I am certain.

"Stranded...

Caught in the crossfire." Onshore to Cross winds. Not Good. It was a rough one out there today. Didn't do much.  Maybe caught 1 good ride.  Two rides of note, however... I don't know how I stayed up. I popped up, my board was going one way, my body the other. On both of these I remained on the board. I was all over the place (flailing) in a heavy wash and somehow rode 'em.

Interestingly enough, I flail during headstand in yoga as well. Maybe that's how I stayed up. Sheer will and survival.

OCB

Old Orchard Closeout Beach. That's what we had today--a bunch of closeouts. I brought both boards with me. Started on the 8'0. A little of this and a little of that. There was just no face to ride. Swapped out to the 9'4. Again a little of this and a little of that--no face to ride. I saw a lot of stuff jumping though. Then you start to worry.

Reports are looking good for tomorrow, but..........

Oh So Close

But not quite. The waves just weren't holding up. "Should I Stay or Should I Go?" Well people ask, "Hey Big Wave, what do you do?" I surf, so out I went.

Tried one swooping bottom turn--only problem, I swooped too much, buried the rail, and went plunging into the face.

Ah, but save the best dance for last. Caught a nice frontside where I was trimming, climbed the face and dropped in again. 

Not Only, But Also

Not only have there been no waves, but I am also considering giving up surfing altogether. I mean this is crazy.

Then coming home I see this sticker. Talk about salt on the wound.

All The Trimmings

The best part of Thanksgiving--catching trim. Pulled out the 9'4 and went surfing. I was stuffed as I had just finished eating, but I couldn't let the opportunity pass me by. Especially since it has been such a lousy year for waves.

Caught one nice backside--humming down the line. Had a better spill. Was popping up, the wave was crashing steep and I just bailed!

Nice to be in the water again. 

Meat-a-ball

It's been a year in the making, but today it finally happened. I got to make Italian meatballs with the Master. Don't be fooled by the hat. I am the helper. As you can see,  Master Chef Marco thinks my techniques are funny (not to mention slow).






A little tease to wet your appetite then...out of the oven comes the meat-a-balls (well half of the batch).

BUON APPETITO!

Happy Thanksgiving to All!

Contemplating

The end of the blog. There has simply been nothing to write about. Very discouraging from my end as well.

"Sanity now it's beyond me
There's no choice...
Monday till Sunday in stages
Set me free"

For Those About to Rock (We Salute You)

Called Phil at Cinnamon Rainbows and explained my situation. He told me to arch my back like a mofo when paddling for the wave. All the difference in the world. Nice waves tonight--rocked a couple.

I think it's time for another surfari.

Save the best wave for last. Fire!

11-11-11

It's been too long. My pop-ups today were soooooooo sloooooow. I'm not sure if it's inactivity or 'cause I was bundled in that thick winter suit. Either way, I need lots of work. I'm debating pulling the longboard out of storage and returning the pop-out. The guy told me try it 12 times and if I don't like it I can return it. I am really considering returning this thing.

Maybe I'm just too old for this gig.

Back to Reality

Spent the last day in Florida doing a lot of errands. Was supposed to hit yoga on the beach in Siesta Key, but it got rained out.

Had a nice flight home. I had three seats to myself. The landing in Portland was so smooth. The steward told us to applaud the captain. The plane didn't skid, bounce,etc.

A little dose of reality. Last time out I was in boardshorts...next time out, I'll be in a winter suit with a hoody, booties, and gloves

Never To Return

Went to Cocoa Beach, Missles, Hangers, and Second Light--all poor conditions, not working--way too rough. Went to Patricks (AFB)--couldn't get out to the lineup. It was too windy, too rough.

Ended up at Cherie Down Park in Cape Canaveral...didn't do anything. I've determined if my dad or Ken is around the conditions are not surfable. I've also realized that surfline is the right forecast to go by. The kicker is the waves back home were rockin. Oh well. I took advantage of the photo-op.

Wetsuit pic is at Patricks and Boardshorts at Cherie Down. The water was 77 degrees, way too warm for a wetsuit.

Conflicting Information

Where to go? I've been reading six different report sites since 5:00 am--all with conflicting information. Well, I'm gonna go with the Swami and try Cocoa Beach. If nothing else, my dad will see the largest surf shop in the world, Ron Jon Surf Shop. Plus there are lots of beaches in the area. Let's hope for some good action.

Nice Guy

Went golfing with my dad. He hit his ball in the water and told me to go look for it. I didn't find his ball, but found this alligator eyeing me--nice guy.

He redeemed himself afterward when we went to Munchies 420 and he completed the fire in the hole challenge. Check out Food Network Munchies 420 Cafe, Man vs Food. Adam couldn't complete the challenge--Big Wave's dad did.

Big Cats

The reports down here are no different than back home--a lot of junk. I was gonna go to Daytona today, but saved 6 hrs driving by making a few calls. I'm going to Cocoa Beach Thursday no matter what.

Went to Big Cat Rescue in Tampa. This is not a zoo. Big Cat Rescue is the largest accredited sanctuary in the world dedicated entirely to abused and abandoned big cats. Big Cat Rescue is home to more than 100 exotic big cats. The cats at Big Cat Rescue are here for a variety of reasons, including: Abandoned by owners who wrongly thought they would make good pets (like the cuckoo in Ohio), Abused by owners in order to force them to perform, Retired from performing acts, Saved from being slaughtered to make fur coats, etc.

Here's how the cat's spent Halloween.

Trick or Treat

I gave my dad several opportunities to hit Hatteras on the way down--that would have been a real treat. Instead we opted to go to see Pedro at South of the Border. The trick was on me.

I'm on a 284 mile stretch of road with swamps and trees as far as the eye can see in all directions--oh no here comes the rollers. I'm asked if I know the speed limit in the city limits? City Limits, I guess that's what the hillbillies consider a city? I told Officer Beets to call ahead as I've got anotha 987 miles to go.

Cruised in at 11:30 last night. My dad wanted to spend the night in Savannah. If, I'm gonna take three days to drive to Ball-Z South (still operating in the red), I can assure you one night will be in the OBX. If there would be no speed limits on these backwoods roads, I'd do it in one day.

Waves are gonna be off the hook all week on the East Coast!!!

Caught with...

Well not quite with my pants down, but...caught in my boardshorts and slippahs. Who knew the trip to Florida would be like this. I guess the weather channel did.

My dad is real upset as I decided to forego the Outter Banks. Probably should've gone that way. We are way behind schedule. We are crashing in Virginia tonight and it looks like we've got another 15 hours ahead of us. We did better last year going to the OBX (supposedly out of the way).

Stay Tuned

The OBX may not be working this weekend. If not, no problem (save about 8 hrs driving), I'll be hitting Sebastian Inlet...Florida's premiere spot. If news changes en route, I will let you know. Would love to hit Hatteras as I need a new OBX sticker for my car.

The Good, The Bad AndThe Ugly

The good news is head-high waves in Hatteras on Sunday.
The bad news is nothing here until then.
And the ugly. You should have seen me yesterday in dress shoes, slacks and shirt--Ugly!

Flounder

Whew I did a lot of paddling today and not much else. I'm reminded of the guy who said, "it's looks like a lot of work for so little."

Ah...but, I caught two nice rides. One frontside where I did a big sweeping bottom turn and one backside where I was cruising down the line and saw the wave was gonna close so I turned it in. They say it only takes one. One good ride keeps the stoke alive and makes it all worth it.

Upon walking home, my camera man asked me how it went. He tells me he has other things to do. That's alright. Check out www.gopro.com

Good Thing...

...my video crew wasn't around. I had about as poor a session as you could possibly imagine.

At least it was good to be in the water...not really. It's almost time to bust out the winter suit. If nothing else I'll be wearing gloves next time out. Hopefully that will be in a few hours and the video team should be here by then.

Sweet Dreams

I caught the longest frontside wave today. It just went on forever. Then I woke up.

"But that was just a dream
That was just a dream"

If the waves come in tomorrow as predicted...I hope to turn dreams into reality.

Surfing A Shark

This musta been one hell of a ride

http://www.weather.com/outlook/weather-news/news/articles/surfer-shark-oregon_2011-10-14

Can I Hear A Hey

The next time out (after a killer session) is never as good. Well you can lay that theory to rest. I ripped a sick backside wave where the wall was holding up and just kept going.

"If it's all right with you, I'll rip this here one apart"

It was cool, I just kept looking way down the line--carving the wave.

You know I was in the right spot today 'cause the Kennebunk gang was here in the morning and the Higgins crew in the evening.

Finally

Finally rocked the new board. I'm gonna tell you about one ride and that's it. Well...'cause it was that good. I'm taking off, I don't know what's happening. I see white water crashing on my head. I close my eyes, scoot down real low and hold on. Next thing I know, I emerge from the soup, riding high on the open face. I drop down, do a bottom turn, up the face, a top turn back down, and finish it off with a baby kick out.

One beach-goer said it's looks like a lot of work for so little. Don't be fooled. What looks like so little is the thrill of it all!!!!

To All The Haters

This post goes out to all the crackers who have been hounding me about surf. Went out today. Brought my 8'0 'cause I'm anxious to get rolling on this one. Shoulda took the 9'4...actually shouldn't even been out there it was chop suey...but my readers, especially the crackers get what they want.

Hit one backside bottom turn and another where I was going right and the wave was closing so I turned it left. I think I figured on this board I need a wider stance to make the board hop. All in all nothing to right home about. Hope you crackers enjoy!

The Best

The Presidential got a rock chip and I noticed a leak the other day. You want the best, you got the best. I went to see Mary who hooked me up. Mary says it looks like I'm rollin' around incognito in an old man's car--Exactly the point. Good Luck PoPo!

Mary entered a nation-wide competition and ranked 17th best auto glass installer in the United States. She was the first female ever in the competition. They didn't know what to make of it. I assure you she was the best (a bit of sexism definitely factored into the results). If you saw her score card...I mean they docked her points for having rivets in her jeans. Everyone had jeans and no one else was docked for this BS. One guy broke the windshield during the installation and placed higher than her. I rest my case. Anyway...Mary Morissette, hands down the best.

Just A Pretty Picture

Not Much Action

The only action lately has been hangin' with friends on the beach and a little yoga. As you might notice from the shirt, I'm gearin' up for Hatteras at the end of the month. Also hoping for a little action Thursday & Friday. Reports calling for overhead at Higgins. You know those reports--we'll see.

Tough D

Samantha is in a round-robin tournament. She had two games today. In the first game she scored a goal and had an assist. Look at her playing tough D here (in blue). She cut down the angle, closed in, and took the ball away. She has another double header tomorrow.

Goochie Goochie Goo

Nice waves at home today, but I went chasing instead. Went to Gooch's. The report said and I quote, "Waves are 2-3ft…thigh to waist high. Super glassy and peeling real nice." The only thing there...was flat glass and believe me I know a little about flat glass.

I've made this mistake before. Good waves at home, stay home. Take the sure thing. Hopefully I learn this time.

Met a couple of good guys in the water. I mean we had nothing to do other than talk. It was that bad.

Timing & Conditions

You need the right timing and the right conditions. I've been watching the waves over the past two days and I think both times I was out 2hrs too early--that's timing. Conditions are a huge factor as well. Right now the waves are comin' in so sweet, I think I could get barreled. Word to the wise....

Hit it at the right time with the right conditions--that's what it's all about!!!

Off The Wall

I took my log down and gave it a whirl. Hit one nice drop--haven't done that in a while. I got swept from the red roof to Grey Goose (about two blocks). Then I got a bit freaked. The sky was overcast, it stated raining, murky waters...that's when the men in grey suits come around. Plus I was the only one out there.

One more from my crackpot crew. In all fairness, I don't give them much to work with.

Ironically, the only video I have of me surfing comes from the intern I canned. The video comes before he was even in the internship program (Sept. 19,2010 Late Night, Early Waves).

Ace Video

I employed the services of two video companies today hoping to catch some action. Obviously I am overpaying for the services I receive.

Big Wave

I had this planned out before I left Hawaii a year and a half ago. All the bottle caps have a Hawaiian word with the English translation underneath. Each cap you see is a different word. Imagine my surprise when I arrived in Hawaii and there was an ale named Big Wave. I didn't have to think twice selecting my drink of choice.

Received a DVD from Ken yesterday titled, "The Adventures of Big Wave Dave". I didn't realize how good my videographer was. His commentary is great. I am now determined to catch some good waves for him (that are blog-worthy).

Art

Today was more suited for "old trusty" which now finds itself hanging on the wall. I need to get a double-decker strap so I can bring both boards with me. Right now I like playing with my new toy. Everyone seems to be asking me what type of board it is, so I think I'm gonna get some neon paint and write, "It's a POP-OUT" on both sides.

Hit my first drop with the new board and out ran a couple of sections. One ride was kinda neat. The wave had already crashed. I was in white water so I just rode it in on my belly. Then I could see the wave was gonna reform so I started to paddle, popped up and rode the wave. Also did my first turtle with the new board. Coincidentally, I did turtle (Kurmsana) for the first time at yoga yesterday. Neither one was very graceful.

Met an older gentleman, Steve, out in the line-up. He had snow-white hair and stache. He was rockin' the waves. I hope to be as good as him some day and definitely keepin' the stoke alive at that age. It was inspirational!!!

Mis-Fortunes

Went to Fortunes Rock. Boy is that far. I mean it's right over there, but as they like to say in Maine, "You can't get there from here."

So I was scoping out the waves--nothing special. Then I see a girl go out surfing in a bikini. Well, I mean I was there anyway so...

Every time I would pop-up the wave would close out. That was my day. A bunch of Mis-Fortunes.

Ramblings...

There is a huge anti-Pop-Out movement within the surf community. It's all over the web. You can find few counter arguments, although with much digging you can find some info.

I was restless, upset, and had trouble sleeping after finding out I had purchased a pop-out.

Well I can see both sides of the situation, especially those wanting to keep shapers in business and stay true to the art.

I must say...living in Maine, I know of no shapers. So I go to my local surf shop and talk to the guy and get info to see what he has to fit my needs. He puts me into a pop-out. Now, that's more profit in his pocket. This has to be somewhat good as it is keeping my local surf shop around. I would really be up a creek with no surf shops in the area.

Now I know a custom board is gonna be the bomb. I would say that is the case with any craft. But off-the-shelf items have their place too. Whether it be: guitars, baseball bats, gloves, golf clubs, running shoes, etc. I would say off-the-shelf or pop-outs are perfect for the beginner to intermediate. I'm not gonna get a custom Les Paul, although I would love to have one. By the same token, Eric Clapton is not gonna play a $200.00 Fender Squier Strat--while he might have in his youth (if such a thing existed). My point here is that as you progress in anything you will invest in the better stuff when the time is appropriate and your skill warrants it. Top level/advanced people in any field have custom stuff. Don't worry the shaper isn't going anywhere soon.

Believe me, Usain "Lightning" Bolt doesn't get his shoes off-the-rack. Do you think Tiger Woods gets his clubs off-the-shelf? I'm sure he did at one point.

I was just informed by my neighbor who owns a Steinway Grand Piano that she did not learn to play on a Steinway.

Test Drive

Took my new stick out for a spin. Waves were ankle to knee high mush. Caught at least two-dozen rides. Had one really cool left and one nice right. Didn't outrun any sections, but I think I'm gonna have fun on this board--thus the name, funboard.

While changing, wetsuit around my ankles...a little girl stops right out front of me and won't continue on her way. What's one to do? Well I continued changing. I'm very adept at this procedure.

One more coming about pop outs...

Quiver...

...or at least the start of one. I decided that the waves yesterday were not above my skill level. I had the wrong board for the conditions. So, I went to Cinnamon Rainbows to pick up a used board, but I fell for the old up-sell and went new. It's a popout (not very keen of the idea) which is taboo in the surf industry, but hey...money is money.

New board means a new look for Big Wave. I got an 8'0 funboard with a thruster setup. Phil, shop owner, wants to get me into a 6'10 next year. We'll see. My old board is a 9'4 so this will be a big transition for me. Board looks and feels tiny. Smallest I've ever ridden is a 9'0. Should be able to ride in more conditions though. Phil told me I'm gonna have to paddle harder and drop a little later. The later part I can handle.

As my golden locks were falling to the ground, I almost held off and told her to stop while we were at the little dutch boy look. After the haircut, the stylist told me --she liked the way my hair was before saying, "it was cool having an I don't care attitude." Once again, a victim of the up-sell.

Sad State of Affairs

Didn't catch one wave in the afternoon session. When I came to shore there were 42 seagulls sitting and mocking me.

Afterward, I was talking to Ivars on the beach. He is a really good surfer. He asked how long I've been surfing and then told me I'm doing really well. I didn't catch a wave. He must be talking about other times he's seen me surf.

The waves were definitely above my ability level today. That's alright. I did some research on how to tackle these steep waves. I'm ready for the next go around.

Sweet Maria

I was chasing bombs. Caught one really sick ride and that was about it. Did a couple of rail grabs to go left, but basically I got bombed.

I did a turtle and the wave jacked me and my board right out of the water. Trying to hit a drop, I smacked my board hard and got held under. Got tossed over the falls on another. At one point I was gonna leave 'cause my calf was crampin' hard. Only later did I realize that I wasn't cramping up--the wave was was ripping my board so hard that it was the tension from the leash causing the pain.

I was glad to see that Higgins' top dog did no better out there. It was just rough n' tumble!

How sexy is that pic? Rise & shine.

Woody

THE ULTIMATE SURFMOBILE!!!

Paradise

I needed to get away from all of the stress, so I went camping. I was visited by a couple of bears and a cougar. Good thing I left my provisions outside of the tent. Later in the night, I was playing guitar with a guy on the beach.

The camp ground I went to was awesome. I was the only one on the seven-mile stretch. In the middle of the night it felt and sounded like the waves were washing all around me. Sweet Relaxation. Finished the trip off with a little morning yoga.

Smokin' Hot

Day 3
Yeah, the weather, the girls and the surf. The announcer commented that the waves looked like the North Shore. They were comin' in real sweet. This is Kelly Slater hitting the barrel in his semi-final heat.

Later in the heat, he got a perfect 10. I don't know what you call this move, but he boosted, did a 360 in the air, landed back on the wave and rode it in, and made a claim. If you don't land the move and continue to ride, it doesn't count. Did I tell you these guys are SICK!!!

Owen Wright, winner of the biggest purse in surf history.

http://quiksilverpro.com/blog,143,contest.en.htm

Next stop on the tour, Trestles. Big Wave has surfed two of the pro venues.

(I would blow up all pics from the past 3 days to get a feel)

Definitely gonna have to get a job real soon after this trip.

Aerial Display

Day 2
Ah...The Katia swell was building. The weather was off the hook and the crowd was massive. Sunny day means plenty of bikinis on the beach. The girls in New York leave nothing to the imagination and believe me...I have a vivid imagination.

Joel Parkinson caught the first tube of the competition. This is him coming out. Blow up the pic. After that the waves were pumping for an air show and these guys did not disappoint. The announcer said, "It's not like you can go practice this. You need the right conditions to perform air." These guys are unbelievably amazing!!! (Tough to catch a picture in the air with my rinky-dink cam).
http://quiksilverpro.com/blog,141,contest.en.html

Hit the Open again. Saw Roger Federer against Jo-Wilfried Tsonga. John McEnroe once said, "the difference between #1 in the world and #10 is how they play the big points." That was certainly the case in this match. I mean they all hit the ball like machines.

Gonna have a good video clip, but I'm not gonna get it until either Wednesday or Thursday of next week--stay tuned!

Quiksilver Pro New York

Day 1
Went to the Quiksilver Pro at Long Beach. This is the first pro surf event on the East Coast in over twenty years. It was a nasty day, weather wise, but things cleared up by the time I got there and I saw some good action. This is Big Wave with Jeremy Flores.

http://quiksilverpro.com/blog,138,contest.en.html

Hit the US Open at night. Saw Serena Williams warm up and then play was suspended due to weather. The whole day was a wash at the Open. I've been to Wimbledon, The French Open, and The US Open and have yet to see a match.

Funny thing is...when I told people that I was going to the Quicksilver Pro, (having no idea) they asked me...Oh are you entering? I wouldn't even qualify for the Old Orchard Beach Open. How come no one asks me if I'm entering the US Open? I'm a much better tennis player than surfer.

A Few More From The Island

Homer D in the House!!! It was a beautiful day. Tough to beat--a party boat and a little Reggae on the side. On the way home we had an encounter with the popo. I believe it was a case of racial profiling. Come on, we get pulled over in the open water. Actually there was a rowdy boat who caused some problems and buzzed us. My skipper said to the popo, "he was a weirude man." The cop was really cool. After we left, I asked Ali what is a weirude (some boat terminology or something). He told me, "no the guy was way rude." That's was good enough for the cops. Hey it's Reggae Sunday--what do you expect...even the cops are chillin'