This is a re-blog....Word

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EM-8b6LgnMk

Ho Ho Ho

They say there are 3 days you have to surf...Christmas and....I forget the other two (maybe New Year's and Super Bowl Sunday).

Might head out later 'cause the waves are really pumping right now...of course I went out in the slop!

Aftermath

This is the aftermath of Damon...I'm calling it Super Soaker. I had to delete an hour of Glenn's rap 'cause it was NSFW...Anyway he's been pumpin' me to take out the log, so I did.

Glenn was out in the Super Soaker Damon yesterday and re-tore his not healed groin so he's bustin' my chops onshore.

Bad

I don't know what to tell you, other than, I am just that bad. I am considering retiring the fish as well.

Killer forecast for Wednesday at Higgins...hopefully I can get my act together. Think I'll take the green board out.

11th

High Tide at 11th. This was it for me. Glenn had a sweet session, catching everything and rocking 'em, but he got seriously injured on a closeout and is now out of commission.

POV Kookville

Short of actually surfing, this is the closest I can get you (head cam). Unfortunately the waves were soft and small with a lot of snakes so not much action

Thanksgiving Waves

Blurred Lens

"I hate theses blurred lines, I know you want it..."

Finally caught some waves--check out #2

Sunset

Rough Outing

First I lost my board, struggled getting leash back on, got held under..then two lousy rides...then the walk of shame

Another botched edit sans mouse. Everything gets messed up without the mouse. Like the video locks in and the music isn't spose to start until the walk of shame...and the speed up also. Hmmmm.

Crazy Video

Crazy Video because of Crazy Editing because my mouse is broken. Have you ever seen me operate with this stupid mouse pad??? Thus the bad editing. We Will Improve--Hopefully Skating and Surfing As Well!

The slow-motion skater is Glenn!!!

Bank Run

Same spot as the youtube video "Fresh Friday Fools"

Baby Steps

"Started from the bottom now we here." Working from the bottom up I have made it to 38 Union Street. Glenn is a little higher (literally).

Even though I say "I'm going too fast" on both...they are separate rides.

Old Friend

Caught up with an old friend this afternoon--my original board (Beautiful wax job by Monica). This board will be officially retired and become a wall hanger. On the last ride my wrist mount came undone and I am jockeying with it.

Need Work

Waves were firing at Higgins, but I was not. Man do I need work!!!

New Perspective

Same results. Got a wrist mount for the GoPro. Hopefully I'll get you some dope action soon. In my defense...we were the only two kooks out there during the first snow of the season!

Halloween At Reen's

A lot of good snippets lost, but was bored with editing process. Next year we are gonna dope up Halloween so the kids know we are open for business!

Winterized

Had to break out the winter gear. I was freezing the last few times out. There was a seal playing peek-a-boo with me today, but he was camera shy. This is what we got. Northeast Slop!!!

Close Orchard Beach

Outgoing slop from Gonzalo. Glenn says I suck. Oh well. I can't argue with that noise!

Yolo Gonzalo

Gonzalo is on his way out of town. As usual, not as good as advertised. As usual, I'm not as good as advertised. I put a little segment so you could see that it was pretty crowded out there. On the last wave...if you look to the top left, you can see a guy drop in on me which prevented me from making a bottom turn and forced me into the white water...bullocks....Anyway

I'm gonna suit back up and try to catch some of the last of Gonzalo--wish me luck!

Ready To Retire

Just didn't have it (again) today. I am just getting into the waves waaaaaaaay too late. Got a cameo by Pretty Boy for Monica. Forget what I said yesterday, I may take out the Fish or the Log (your board Monica) out for the next session.

Pre Zolo

This was the third time out today. Getting ready for Hurricane Gonzolo. I got crushed. "Rude and crude like a pit-bull, get to the point, you're (expletive) gonna get killed!" One thing's for sure...I don't care how big the waves are Saturday or Sunday...I'm taking out the Hog.

smooth

We hit dawn patrol today. Didn't stay out too long because we found out it is now glove season-brrr!

Nasty

Mean, nasty waves today. I debated taking out the fish (which I should have), but it didn't matter the waves were just above my ability level. I was flying once I got up and couldn't do anything else--other than get up and get pummelled.

Working with Edouard

Signs

I came out of the gate strong and then I went downhill fast. I think it's a sign for me to get Big Wave's rolling.

Struggle

This first wave felt way better than it looks. That's probably because I was out nearly four hours and I struggled all day. I didn't have the cam for the morning session because I was late to the party. I did have one nice front side though. I probably struggled this morning because I was too busy checking out the honnies/bunnies in the lineup. The afternoon...well I have no excuses. I put the second one in because that's pretty low for me. "Bass, how low can you go?"

There are nice waves projected Mon-Thurs but I am so far behind on getting Big Wave's open for this weekend. But I will still try to sneak some sessions in. If you don't see me out here that means I am now operating Big Wave's and you can find updates on Big Wave's Facebook page. I don't know the address, but you can search Big Wave's Old Orchard Beach (always the marketer!!!)

SW Winds & Puddling

Some dude out there said the waves were tough to catch because it was Southwest winds and puddling. I have no idea what that means, but (I guess) I want Southwest winds and Puddling everyday!!!! On the last ride, Glenn was riding the wave behind me. He yelled, "yo." I looked and waved. While looking back, I rode so far in that my fins bottomed out on the sand and I took a nasty spill. All Good! It was fun out there tonight

Hey Yeah

"Alright, Alright, Alright, Alright"
Then great debate lingers on--the hog or the fish. I took the fish out. I had to clean it up, Go Pro Glenn left it filthy after his last session. Anyway I struggled for about 45 minutes without catching anything. I had to get reacquainted with the fish while 3 girls were putting me to shame. I didn't even get any numbers. Anyway....the second wave woulda been incredible, but my front foot slipped on what shoulda been the bottom turn so I got caught up in the slop. Time for a wax job. My third wave, "Alright, Alright, Alright, Alright" while it may not look like it...this was my best wave ever! I was working the board and Ru says, "It's better to turn than to have a long ride" Right on Ru!!!!

Picka

Went out with the right frame of mind. Be in spot X, be the hunter not the hunted. Then I saw a couple snowbirds back in town. They were distracting me and got me off of my game. They got in my head and I was intimidated. Oh well. The second ride was my best (of course the camera is down).  You have to look at the reflection on the board to see the ride.  On the third wave--I out ran a big (white-water) section. Don't think I've done that before. Then in true kook fashion, I messed up the backend. Then....Glenn killed a monster drop. I was stoked for him--he rocked a massive wave!!!!

Spring Cleaning

Looks like it's time to clean the GoPro. Hit high-tide at Higgo. First Ride was really good. Especially after the slow, lazy, awkward pop-up. On the last ride, I'm fighting/riding white water, but check out the :59 second mark. I'm going the opposite direction (180 degrees). I whipped that thing around--although white water slop.

Don't Be Fooled

We were gonna go snowboarding, but at 4:00 am  we decided to sleep instead. Don't be fooled by the trick photography. We went surfing in small, weak waves.

Dovidenja (dough-vee-jane-ya) Serbia

Spent the last three weeks in Serbia. What a beautiful country, wonderful people, and fabulous food. If you ever have the opportunity, I strongly recommend a visit. I missed my last flight home from Chicago. Exact same thing happened when I returned from Hawaii. http://surfingreport.blogspot.com/2010/03/extended-stay.html. The plane was still there. Oh well.

So I've been home 4 days and have surfed 3. Day 1--felt great to be back in the water, but I had no good video. Yesterday I had some good rides, but my go pro editor was messed up, and this is what I have for today. Nothing special, not much, but as the quote goes...."Surfing is very much like making love, it doesn't matter how many times you've done it, it always feels good."

It's Always Good...

When you can go out, paddle a board, and grab a few waves.  I was real aggressive going for a wave every couple of minutes, but would overcut (over turn) everything--trying to turn way too hard and burying my rail. All good though.


 I really enjoyed the second ride here--although nothing special... Someone else had priority--it was their wave. If you notice I look to my right (your left) while paddling. I go to my knees because I am going to pull out of the wave (off the back), I see him fall and I continue to grab the wave

Fish Pops

Good practice popping up on the fish because there wasn't much of a wave face today...mostly crumbling white-water. Then I get popped. Don't worry fans...I saw it coming. A big oil tanker (sup) came flying at me.

Yeah Boy!!!

Hog or Fish--The Great Debate

Hey, Yo Big Wave clean your lens once in a while. Check That!
The hog or the fish that is the question. I don't know which board to use.  They are rated for similar conditions, but do different things. I just wanna make the right choice. I went with the Hog today 'cause it was so windy.

Too Bad you can't see 'cause these are some really nice rides. Bummer.

Gotta Work

Gotta work for the waves on the fish. Phew. May just take the hog out tomorrow. First wave, I hunted down Go Pro Glenn (ironic) and almost cleaned him out. Later on, he almost cleaned me out as I was in his way three times. So after about an hour out there I  started thinking before each wave--3 L's.  Look ahead (when paddling) where you wanna go, Stay Low (once you're up), and Stay Loose so you can turn. I have a tendency of being all rigid once up and locking in on the wave. That's why we skateboard...to stay loose.

Tales From The Fish

To my non-surfing friends...I missed the first one due to fear. I popped up too soon and the wave passed me by. I was afraid to paddle into/down the wave.  On the others you can see I was SHAKY. I have a lot less board, but from those shaky rides I realized it's all the same. So next time I go fishing, hopefully, I will have no fear.

On the last wave, after the super-shaky pop up,  I was gonna make a bottom turn but could see the wave was gonna pound me onshore so I jumped through the wave. That's also how I break all my boards--on a shore break.

Downhill

Video Is Spastic and All Over The Place, But I Had A Lot I Wanted You To See


Today's session went downhill quick. Started out fine and then....So I read reviews of the Moby Fish on line and it says 2-8 feet and great for small, soft surf. It's a catch 22 because I want to ride the fish but I know I can get up on the hog. After today I'm taking the fish out on small junk.

Short Mushy Rides

You know it's cold when you are changing and you want to get in the water to warm up--brrr. I gave you an intro so you can see Higgins Beach. Rides were short and turning over quick but as always...a good time. I may start bringing the fish out 'cause I think the hog might have too much rocker and be better suited for steeper waves. I don't know. Over thinking as always.

When leaving, there was an older, grey-haired gentleman changing next to me. He was a construction worker which I thought was cool Go Blow Up Your Stereotypes! Everyone Surfs!

Ube-age

The Ube was rocking n rolling today. The moon was to the east and the sun to the west. I was out for two and a half hours. Yahoo for daylight savings or regular light or whatever it is. You know I'm a big fan of Spring Forward.  Was out til 6:30  I was out so long that the battery died on the camera. My last ride was the best too (it was the best in my video era), but I don't have it captured. Of course. Sure you did Big Wave. I did and Glenn will attest to this in the comment section. I did a few loop de loops. It was fun today.

Home Court Advantage

The reports called for nothing so of course no one was surfing. I could see it was a little more than nothing so I went out for a practice session. That's what they call home court advantage.  Hey the water hog is listed as:
"Ideal Wave Size Ankle-high to Head and a half"--so I put it to the test. I had fun but I should have really been able to easily glide into these waves and trim down-the line (terminology defined below).
)

TRIM	The skill of keeping a surfboard at the correct angle to the face to gain maximum speed.

DOWN THE LINE

When riding a wave along the length ahead of the breaking part of a wave.

Bumbling/Fumbling

The waves were bumbling and fumbling, Big Wave was bumbling and fumbling, the video is bumbling and fumbling and the geese were flying out of formation (for real).

Up and Down

That's what I did today...pop up and fall down (couldn't get stable cause of the juice). It wasn't until Glenn told me to stay low that I started catching some rides. Glenn killed it out there today.  He caught everything in sight and really rode 'em.  The waves never look as big on cam as they really are because of the camera view. I could have rode the fish today, but all is good.  I wish you could see what I see (on this last ride) looking down the line. It is so cool.

Video clip is called Orion because my neighbor told me there would be no waves today because...I don't know the moon is in Orion or some hocus pocus.  To that I say take some more astrology.  Waves were killer today

Re-Dedicated

Today marks the first day of my fifth year surfing. I've gotten fat and lazy over the past 4 years. I look at video from 4 years ago and my pop up was way better back then.  So I've decided to get in better surf shape. I've started doing these surf exercises and have started yoga again. It is unbelievable how many yoga poses lend themself to surfing.  Too many to list.


So I went to Ogunquit for my surf anniversary. I caught five waves total and had three nice ones. Of course I don't have video. Look at the picture. The black piece goes into the white piece on the board and then the camera goes into the black piece. I was all ready. Waxed my board, cleaned the bottom, charged the camera, did surf exercises this morning.....forgot the black piece. 


Anyway, had one right hand wave where I really worked it--seriously, I haven't worked a wave in a long, long time and I even did a floater at the end. I also had one left-hand (back-side) wave where I actually walked the board a little bit--I've never done that before.  I know--yeah sure Dave...where's the video. 


Hopefully I get some good video tomorrow so you don't think I'm full of bologna.

Good As New

Picked up the water hog today. Eugene is a magician. This thing was in rough shape and now it is good as new. I went out with the fish a few days ago. Eugene asked me how it went. He told me the waves were a little too small for that board. I didn't post anything because it was a lame-o session and I really didn't have any good video. Forget about Health Insurance, I need insurance for my boards.


If you look close you can see a little wedge shape piece on the board. That section was missing.

Who Says No Fear? Not Me

I retooled my paddle stick/brake with a shoe. Training wheels so to speak. This all started a few years back when I was surfing the Ube and a girl told me I should get a skateboard and Bomb Union. I think she told me it was called the Ube as well. So I wanna bomb Union but right now fear is winning.  I've been having trouble shaking this fear since I took that nasty spill on Island View last year (runs parallel to Union).

Street SUP

They have these land paddles for skateboarding. They cost like $150.00+.  I saw a video on how to make your own.  Big Wave's cost--$6.39.  My intention for the paddle was to go down Union. If I go too fast I can use the stick to slow down. Well after a little test run, I determined my homemade stick isn't gonna slow me down. I chickened out and did our little Old Orchard loop.

So As

Gotta thank Glenn for letting me use his SUP. This aircraft carrier is lighter than my green board. So my rolfer and my doctor have told me I have a super-duper,extremely tight psoas (pronounced so-as). What does that mean...means I need to start up yoga again. Poor Stephanie (my instructor). There's no talking in yoga. I ask her a million questions (hips forward, hips back--I don't know). Anyway, that's why I did the SUP today...it's 'spose to be a good core work out. I've tried it before with no success. Today the ocean was FLAT so I gave it a shot. After that initial wipe-out getting up, I went for 40 minutes straight without falling.

Update

Good News!!! My longboard can be fixed. Woohoo. Well we are not going to bother with the bottom, but it will be fixed and surfable. My green board now has the fin box ripped out and it is drying. I will be able to pick it up in the summer. It's drying--I told you it was water-logged.

Sad State Of Affairs

Pretty Sad. Prior to buying a new board yesterday, I had three boards and all are/were severely damaged.

Off To The Emergency Room

• My 9'4 has a crack from rail to rail and the bottom is toast as it looks like it buckled in a shore break
• My 8'11 water hog's tail is cracked, crumbled, and missing foam (being fixed)
• My 8'0 has a damaged fin box and is water-logged weighing about 100lbs

So I have 3 boards that are toast. I brought the 9'4 and 8'0 to see if they can be fixed. Keeping my fingers crossed. I think the 8'0 is repairable but don't know about the 9'4 (previously told "beyond repair"). If I get all my boards back with the addition of my new board, I will have a nice little quiver.

Quiver: A surfer's collection of boards for different kinds of waves

What Was I Thinking

Went down to NH hoping for some surf. With no surf I went to the surf shop and ended up with a new board. Bye-Bye bandage-water log....I bought a 7'6" Fish. What was I thinking?  I don't know. I've been researching and looking at Fish boards for a little bit now. Besides..My water-logged 8'0 is virtually the same as my water hog 8'11 (minus the rocker). Time to go wax this bad boy up!

Street Cred

Got a rag-tag-repaired, water-logged board (super glue & duct tape), but hey...I'm out there. Can't wait to get the waterhog back. Anyway, I was in the heart of the lineup at the Rivermouth. I have never been in the Rivermouth lineup at Ogunquit before. I've always surfed the main beach (what the locals call the ladies tee). I had to let a lot go.  I was out there with about 6-8 shortboarders at all times. I gave respect and went strictly for scraps. Coulda gone after a few real ones I guess, but I gained some street cred at OGT and gained some confidence as I got up on a bunch of crap.  No real rides 'cause I didn't go after any real waves. I can't wait to hit OGT again and hit that lineup and go after some real waves.

Phew

Big Wave's Rental

Phew for you that I didn't put my camera on the rented board. I was/am so bad....The waves were small and lousy but still. Others were working the waves. Then I had a breakthrough. I saw Ivers. He doesn't paddle, he pops up slow motion and yet he is always in control and he is one of my favorite Higgins' surfers. So I think it clicked....Slow it Down.

Wish I Had More...

But I don't. Nothing blog-worthy. I even messed up this ride. I should've cut it back down at the end. I was trying but I..(don't know). Hey who's that other kook on the wave?

My repair didn't hold up so I went and rented a board so I can surf tomorrow. I'm not sure if I will put a video mount on or not. I have to return the board. We'll see.

Cry Baby

This video is the morning surf at Ogunquit (take note Srpskis and Romanians).
Here's a recap. Yesterday morning my gopro came off my board. Yesterday afternoon my gopro came off my board and I broke my board (water hog) pretty bad. This morning I take out my indestructible green board. Guess what???? Yup, I destructed it. I've been thinking it has been water-logged lately. Well sure enough, the board is de-laminated and I can rip out the fin. The board is toast at the fin box. So, I'm gonna perform surgery with super glue and duct tape cause I gotta hit the afternoon action.

More Of The Same

Got back out on the Water Hog this afternoon. Nice waves and this is all I have to show. A glorious wipe-out. My GoPro mount came off this board too. When I got home I saw that my board was seriously damaged. The whole tail is cracked and missing foam. We caught up with Eugene and he says he can fix it. Thank God. I was so deflated and discouraged. This was my first time out with the board since it had been repaired

Backdoor Floaty

Life of a GoPro:  Lost the GoPro right out of the gate. Good thing I had the backdoor floaty. I thought for sure the thing was gone. Then I looked toward shore and saw the orange floaty. Glenn caught some nice waves this morning. I only got one legit ride (wish I had it on gopro). Anyway...

We have real deal waves today.They are pumping right now. Hopefully we'll get a nice afternoon session.

Fear Not

Big Wave, we haven't seen you for a while. Fear Not!!! Here is Friday's report. The highlighted blue is the projected wave height. The part that says 10s, 12s, etc is the period.  That is the time between waves. All is looking good for Friday, Saturday, and Sunday!!!


Or you can check out the site:  http://magicseaweed.com/Higgins-Beach-Surf-Report/362/ Ken, I think you would enjoy this (navigate around).

02/14

12am

4-6ft

6ft

10s

122.71°

13.5ft

9s

4.5ft

10s

35 53 mph

Blizzard

36°f

100%

3am

5-8ft

14.5ft

9s

72.62°

5.5ft

10s

27 47 mph

Heavy Snow

34°f

100%

Fri 02/14

6am

4-7ft

6ft

10s

122.97°

5ft

11s

12ft

9s

23 37 mph

Heavy Snow

34°f

75%

9am

4-7ft

6.5ft

10s

119.3°

7.5ft

9s

6.5ft

6s

17 28 mph

Light Snow

36°f

75%

Noon

5-8ft

7.5ft

12s

153.58°

7ft

11s

4.5ft

5s

19 29 mph

Light Snow

34°f

100%

3pm

5-8ft

6.5ft

13s

115.62°

6ft

12s

4ft

5s

18 27 mph

Overcast

34°f

100%

6pm

4-7ft

5.5ft

13s

117.84°

4.5ft

12s

4ft

5s

11 16 mph

Cloudy

30°f

100%

9pm

4-6ft

4ft

13s

116°

4ft

12s

3.5ft

5s

9 11 mph

Clear

27°f

100%

The Great Mitten Debacle

Let's see if you can follow this. Let's see if I can remember everything correctly.

• About 3 or 4 days ago Glenn and I go to Higgins. On the way home we are swapping boards etc and I leave my mittens at Higgins.  I go back and can't find them.
• The next day I go to the shop to buy some. The kid tells me he found my mittens. They are in his car but he doesn't have his car with him
• Yesterday I go to get my mittens. On my way there, I am called back home due to an emergency. I don't get my mittens.
• There are waves this morning so I put on my spring gloves, but can't go out it's too cold. So I go to the store to get my mittens. The guy who has them isn't there so I buy new mittens (in between spring gloves and winter mittens).
• I surf the Ube and the kid from the shop is out. He asks if I got my mittens, I explain that I bought new ones. He told me he left my mittens at the store.
• After the session I go to pick up my mittens

Does this make sense to you. Well that's my mitten debacle.. The good news at this point is I have my winter mittens and I have my water hog back. So let me go wax that pig up!

Pasta e Fagioli

Glenn critiqued my ride from the other day. He told me all I do is go down-the-line and I have to start incorporating some turns and maneuvers into my repertoire. So I watched surf video/instruction all day and all night.  Even Ru (surf instructor) says, "it's better to focus on turns than length of ride."

No surf today. Instead I took a cooking class with Marco. We made pasta e fagioli (pasta added later).

Marco also taught me how to make authentic Italian meatballs and meat sauce
http://www.surfingreport.blogspot.com/2011/11/meat-ball.html

Finally

Finally caught a few decent rides and you know I love the belly ride!

Also had a few Neptune Cocktails.


Neptune Cocktail: Huge amount of seawater that sometimes gets swallowed during a wipeout.

Less & Less

You are getting less and less footage of me surfing because I am that bad lately. Anyway I watched a tutorial video this morning by Ru Hill and I tried to do the "up & over" on this ride. I did neither.

I also think the green board is water-logged. I weighed it when I got back. It tipped the scales at 16 lbs. My 9'4" board weighed 14 lbs.

Nonsense

This is two days ago. There were some Big Waves but BW couldn't capitalize. Also went out last night at Higgins. Nothing Video Worthy. I've decided that my whole ride depends on the pop-up and I'm just not that good at the pop-up. Oh well. If at fist you don't succeed,try, try, and try again.

Dings Happen

Had to get the water hog ready for a visit to the doctor. Hey Dings Happen and it's part of the game. Funny how things come full circle. This guy at the surf shop saw me out last night and started talking about my water hog. I told you before....surfing is not all glamour!

Extended Play

What kind of fool changes outside when it's 16 degrees? Big Wave


Tonight you get the extended play so you can check out the sunset and night sky. Not much action because the two hogs kept snaking me. They were bad. I should have just dropped in and taken it up with them in the street. I gotta get my water hog fixed so I can do just that next time.

Good Surf, Bad Surfer

As I go through video footage you would be amazed how often I check my ticker. This is a quick check. Although I had a tough time today....they say it only takes one to have a good session and this was a pretty good ride!!! At the end I tried...I guess, a backside rail grab. Obviously I need work on this maneuver.

We're Going Surfing

Was watching the cam all day and hoping for an evening session. Things were looking grim. Then I saw a guy (on cam) ride a bike to the beach with a surfboard. That was it...I was on my way. You know it's a good day when you are surfing in the snow...WooHoo!!!

Backup

Backup board, backup wetsuit....All my expensive boards get damaged while my K-Mart special is indestructible. Had to wear my old suit 'cuase I've got a nasty rash again and gave my new suit a vinegar bath. I think the rash this time is from all the brown floaties (algae I think) in the water.

While these rides don't look like much--they were Super Fun!



PS--Not Rash on my face--those are the brown floaties

Damaged Goods

Well I got about a 3" crack in my board and there is supposed to be good action this afternoon and tomorrow. So I have to pull out the green board, but I have a lot of work to do to get it ready for the afternoon session.  1st wave (no ride) I just put it in 'cause that's a smooth pop-up for me.

Frame By Frame

Let me explain each section for my non-surfing viewers around the world.

1-A view from the ocean of others catching waves and how you see it. See how smooth they are.
2- I'm up but it's the other guy's wave. It's a left and he's on it first and deeper, but I get off the back of the wave which is what you are supposed to do if you inadvertently drop in on some one.
3-Explaining Go Pro to Ivar's--he is amazed at the battery life and say's "that's fun."
4-Good ride by Big Wave
5-Dropping in on a short-boarder. Major no-no. He could have outrun me and the white-water. I ruined the wave for him. I need to learn how to do a kick-out so I can get off the wave once I'm really in it (or I could look before I pop)--He was cool about it.
6-Happy to catch a wave home. If you notice I keep looking back at this dude. He dropped in on me.

Inside My Head

Had a good day out there. Until I noticed there were 6 surfers in the water. Five really good  Higgins locals and Big Wave. Then I started to get in my own head. I didn't wanna be in their way--whatever. Then a little later there was a group of short-boarders that I felt were swarming me and a sup'er who was stealing all my waves. Like I said...I got inside my own head. These are good rides for Big Wave though.

Worked

Got worked hard this afternoon. This video starts with a real BANG!

Worse & Worse

Hit Higgins for Dawn Patrol. My Sessions are getting worse and worse. Since having the cam I haven't trimmed, bottom turned, angled, or worked a wave...The only thing I do is that stupid slow-motion C turn and a lot of white-water noise. My pop-up work hasn't changed anything so I'm gonna just try and work  the wave (face).  Have a sunrise interlude in the clip...Enjoy.

Juiced

I've been doing it all wrong. Glenn has been telling me my pops are slow and lazy compared to when I first started surfing (from your video Ken). I blame Barry who used to tell me to arch. Well looking at my Go Pro videos...I don't arch. Every wave I catch my chin is on the board. Then I arch during my pop up. Wrong, Wrong, Wrong. I gotta slide into that thing. I've been practicing tonight and I'm nailing it. I can't wait til next outing. I'm gonna be up quick which, in turn, will get me into the wave quick.

So What's Your Point

Hit a morning mush session at Higgins. As if the session wasn't bad enough, my editing is even worse. I had a nice wipe-out section for Madeline (2 year old viewer) that got lost during the edit. If anything...I realize I need to get into the waves much earlier.

No Game

I've got no game. Nice waves this morning, but I couldn't seem to work the wave. Got caught in a routine of pop, drop, and out. The waves were bigger than the video would indicate. Really. Anyway, I've got to eliminate that hop step in my pop-up--problem is my big, fat belly is in the way. Also gotta work on my editing skills. I wanted to loop from :34-:37. I'm really in the wave (rail locked in) and moving at that point.


I had to get out of the water 'cause I was feeling weak and faint. New rule....no more surfing on an empty stomach. I'm pretty sure if you go back to the early days of the blog...I've said that before.

Kookville

I think the pic looks better on the new cam. What a kook session. First off I'm going for a wave and don't pop-up.  I'm on my knees and see Glenn paddling out so I stay on my knees and then decide to stand up--Kookville. No rides for me this afternoon. Glenn caught some nice ones.  On his last one his leash snapped so he was out there with no board.

Fried

I put together a little sample of the morning action so you can see that it's not all fun and games out there. Up until this point you have only seen the glory.



My camera got fried in the water today. You can see by the little circle in the video. Anyway what a fiasco it was to return it, but Big Wave set them str8 and at the Big Box Store and got a new cam. I told the people in line with me, "you know there is a problem when the return line is the largest line in the whole store."

1st Waves Of The New Year

Hit Pine Point for the First Waves of 2014. Surfline called the action very poor. Hey...we caught some waves so all was good.  They were just short rides