Afternoon View

Here's a shot of yesterday's afternoon view from the Ube.  First a turtle roll, then cruising home

 

This was a trial run. I think the video is better when aimed at the back of the board. I'll keep experimenting.

Junk

Got a Go Pro yesterday (like Go Pro Glenn). I'm having serious trouble editing the footage right now, so I'm bailing on the effort. Software is junk tonight. Anyway...morning session was slop at Higgins. There was a little kid in the lineup, I don't know maybe 10 years old and 75lbs. He kept telling his mom (on the beach) to hold on.

Afternoon session at the Ube. Better than morning at Higgins. Still nothing special. A lot of close-outs.  On the way out, I felt some pain in my knee. More so when coming back in. I'm having trouble putting any weight on my right leg. Doctor Gabe thinks it's ACL issues. I'll let you know. Glenn just thinks I'm paranoid with a new ailment everyday....true that, but this really hurts and didn't come out of nowhere.

Nice Session

There was a nice swell at Higgins today. Glenn was hot right out of the gate. It took me a while to get my groove on then I started to hit some nice rides. On my last one, a guy in the lineup said, "here you go." That was cool he let me grab this bomb coming my way. I was in great position. As I pop up I see this guy paddling in the trough, wide-eyed. I'm standing atop the wave about to drop in and I look at him and say, "you're all set." I drop straight down and do an extended bottom turn around the guy and swoop ahead of the section to ride it home. Overall a nice session as both me and Glenn left on a high note.

Kookin' It

It was raw,cold this morning so we went to Higgins in our suits--kook style. Hit some really nice ones today. On one, I was up and a good surfer pulled out of the way because it was my wave. That was cool. I never had that happen before. I rode one so high on the wave, I was literally teetering on the lip. Then...after 5 nice rides my day was done. I was paddling out. Doing everything proper and this guy was popping up. I had to ditch my board and plop under water as his board came less than an inch from whacking me in the noggin. On my next two attempts, I'm about to pop up when I hear a "yo." I look to my left and a guy was up and riding--probably about a foot to my left with his board coming straight for my head. Like I said...this happened two waves in a row so I was gone.

3 Boards

Three boards on the surfmobile. Went to Higgins...the shop (fixing my board) was closed so Glenn went surfing. I shot back home to get Glenn's other board.  On the way back to Higgins, the shop was open so I picked up my board...thus 3 boards on the surfmobile.  I didn't catch jack--but Glenn got a couple of nice ones!!!

Sliced & Diced

While heading out yesterday, I sliced (dinged) my Water Hog so Glenn let me use his board which was Water-Logged by the end of the session.



audio: best ride of the day, the belly ride

Party Wave

Two kooks on a party wave


Big Wave Dave & Go Pro Glenn

Not Fade Away

Hit some Thanksgiving waves. Mostly closeouts but dropped in on some bombs. It felt good.

Went out again today and I was exhausted paddling even though it wasn't that tough. That's what long lulls between sessions will do. Anyway...After a longtime of doing nothing, I caught a nice backside where I was riding high on the face before I dropped in. Then I caught a nice front side and really worked the wave. Stoked, I paddled back out and waited for a long time. Then I did my first fade.

Fade: On take-off, aiming toward the breaking part of the wave, before turning sharply and surfing in the direction the wave is breaking.

Yesterday's Action

This was yesterday...The first ever two kooks production...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ExbA8eQYuqc

Today we skated all over Old Orchard...video should be up tomorrow.  Still getting my nerves up after last year's Big Wipe Out.  That's why I'm the kook with the protective gear.

Go Pro Glenn Strikes Again

It's been real quiet on the surfing front so Glenn has been up-ing his editing skills

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5AYIcLdXZ0
(I think I look like I'm going in sloooowwww-motion because Glenn is skating next to me--not sure)

It's gonna be flat for a bit so we may try to skate the hill I took a nasty spill on last year. I will let you know.

"Looking Good Billy Ray"

Feeling Good. Hit one good one where I was going right and I did the loop-de-loop. Up, down, S turn, big bottom turn... After I got back out and what felt like 5 minutes.... Barry said, "nice ride Dave."  You surf for yourself, but it's cool when a good surfer acknowledges you.

I say, "what, what?"

Caught a quick session last night.  Popped up easy every time. I'm getting real comfortable with this board--it's the bomb. The waves had no juice. Went out again this morning--caught a couple, nothing special. Waiting for the afternoon run....and hopping. It should be working.

The girls lost their bathroom and the wetsuit is back home. Although I wish the girls were still here.  Big Wave has empty nest syndrome.

Absolute...

Best session yet.  Best rides yet...Had 3 right away where I absolutely nailed it. On the first one I dropped down and did two big S-turns on the wave. And the rides were long. Had one ride where I was out front of the white water (but still in the power part)--looking ahead. Finally, I swooped backed into the wave and did a couple of turns. I think this is how you get into the barrel. I'm gonna get there again.  Got walloped on my last three attempts. Crushed, barreled and held under. I got promaja (Serbian), started to panic so I rode home on my belly.

Patience

I've been telling my two Serbian roommates about patience. Time to take your own medicine. I went out yesterday and was about to give up. The paddle out was difficult (only 'cause I was tired). After a few missed attempts I was ready to call it a day. How many turtle rolls can one do in a session? Then I started to catch some waves. I mean I really started to catch some waves. Nice drops and working the wave. The moral of today's blog is patience and persistence.

"Um..Hmm"

Killed it out there. Went to Higgins on a Saturday F*** Fest and I water hogged it. Hit the first one I went after about chest high and carved a nice backside. Caught about 4 good ones overall. This board handles really well with good waves. Had my best ride yet. Popped-up, made the drop going front-side, then I pulled a cutback into the curl and reversed it. I saw the wave was gonna close out so I tried to boogey into the barrel. There was no barrel as the wave closed hard and I just rolled with the white-wash.  Glenn was supping out there and killing it.  Just the fact that he was out there on a sup is crazy. You should check out 2kooks.com (still in the works).

Finally, I had to get outta there cause I almost got taken out 3 times by shortboarders and was eventually in the way. Psyched and Stoked that I finally rocked my new board!!!

Killing It

Glenn is killing it out there on the SUP while I am getting killed. I hope I can figure this board out. I'm getting up no problem, but doing absolutely nothing on the waves.

Let's Catch Up

It's been tough for me to get on my computer....Srpski's Skyping and all.  Last post second session...caught a nice backside trim and that was it, but it was a backside trim.

Went out a couple of days ago and did nothing 'cause the waves had no joules. I mean I stood up, but did nothing. Then I went to Higgins at night and did the same thing. Stood up and did nothing. I'm still trying to figure this board out and I think it all came together in a dream.

Went out today with Glenn. He had a nice little session. We caught a party wave which was cool. Then I hit a really nice wave where I did a C-like motion with my hand in front of me on the water. A big (slow motion) arcing turn. Glenn dropped his board on the walk home. Hopefully he gets it fixed in time as there should be nice waves for the weekend.

Sorry for the delay in posting.  Hey, I'm a surfer!

Yeah Boy

For the past two days I went out and test drove the Ferrari. They were perfect days for a nice test run. Small little, nothing days. I was getting used to the paddling which is fast.  Today we have real waves and I rocked the first wave. I mean I rocked it like never before. This board has action. On my last one I was down real low during the pop-up going through turbulence. I emerged on the other side and worked the wave. I'm getting ready for the afternoon session--I can't wait.

Ready To Rock

I picked up my waterhog yesterday and I'm ready to rock. Even the people at the shop were super-stoked about this board. It has some pretty mean rocker. I don't know how that translates to the waves, but I will let you know. The waterhog is described as just that a water hog with ability to rock in waves from 2ft - 9ft.

Watch Out

"I'm telling you a true story,
only the names have been changed,
to protect the guilty..."
There was a big crowd out there tonight. Yeah the wave hog was out there. I didn't venture into the lineup. Instead I carved out  my own little niche. I caught a nice little backside--trimmed, and worked the wave.

Anyway..I've got a new board coming in next week....A WATER HOG.  Watch out. Once I get this board, I'll put all the hogs and silver monkey's in their place.

Surfing Srpskis

Nevena and Jelena went surfing today. They killed it. Now they are chilling like true surfers. I hope they will never forget their 2013 summer excursion. I know I will always remember it! They finished their session with a party wave (Nevena on the left, Jelena aka JJ on the right).  Good Job Girls!!!

Day Two

Hit it again yesterday. Caught a nice one out of the gate--actually did a bottom turn and dragged my hand on the wave. Unfortunately, I couldn't turn it back down to really rock the wave.   Two days ago, I struggled putting on my wetsuit (it's been so long), I was sweating bullets before I even left my house.

Yesterday the changing process was much smoother. After the session I had a terrible rash on my neck. I guess I should've worn my rash guard. They call it a rash guard for a reason.

Waiting On A Friend

"I'm not waiting on a lady,

I'm just waiting on a friend"

I caught up with an old friend today and it was beautiful. We've certainly lost touch over the summer, but I'm happy to say...I went surfing today. It was tough and I'm definitely out of practice yet I still had the time of my life.  "It's just like starting over"

(pic taken at 96 St. Mark's Place, NYC--site of the Rolling Stones video "Waiting On A Friend")
 

Hiatus

Sorry Big Wave has been down and out of commission on the blog, but Big Wave's has been a rockin' and a rollin' at the shack. I will be catching the waves once the season's over. In the mean time you can check out Big Wave's on Facebook. And if you do, don't forget to like. I'm really into these likes right now!!!  See you when the season is over.

Aloha!!!

Tales From The Shack

About a week ago I traded an ice cream cone to ride this guy's Segway. These things are tough and awkward. I thought you couldn't fall off, but that's not the case. After fearing for my life I gave it another shot and finally got the hang of it.

I put in these big ice cream cones at Big Wave's (fitting I think). Today a girl ran up and wanted an ice cream. Her parents said, "no." She stomped, pouted and threw a tantrum. Her parents were dragging her away as she was balling her eyes out and screaming at the top of her lungs. Her father said, "Thanks Big Wave." I mean come on buy your girl a cone already.

These are my comrades Ivan and Sergei who run the Crepe Factory.

As I was closing tonight, an older woman was snapping shot of my place. She said she likes to takes cool photos and interesting places. She's gonna e-mail 'em to me and I'll post them as soon as I receive them.

Peace!

Finally

Finally the weather broke and Big Wave had some action. It was only 66 degrees, but it felt like 80. I think, actually I know, that people were sick of being cooped up inside and were itchin' to get out and about. I had one girl who told me she's been waiting all winter for a Fro-Ho-Cho. How cool is that? Another girl told me the Fro-Ho-Cho was mad good. I liked that 'cause it reminded me of when I called Fred mad crazy.

It's Official

Big Wave made his first sale of the year.  Ice Cream of course. That's my bread and butter. It's a nasty Memorial Day Weekend. Weather is in the high 40's low 50 and rain, rain, rain. Did better than I thought I would considering the weather and lack of people so that's a plus.

Native American Blessing

Vijay performed the second annual ceremonial blessing for Big Wave's. I asked him to play "many trinkets," but he told me that is not the nature of the blessing. I have to agree. However, I do hope for many trinkets this year.

Hey Yo Big Wave

People have been asking, "Hey, Yo, Big Wave what's up? How come there haven't been any surfing blogs?"
Well it's that time of year again and Big Wave has been getting his shack ready for another season. I open up next Friday the 24th. Weather not looking good right now, but let's hope for a hot booming summer!!!

Dump Permit Required?

I'm not sure if Ogunquit requires a permit or not. Every time I popped-up I got dumped hard. I was sitting real close to the black tees and they were big boy waves today. Too big or too powerful for me. Once going right I got smacked by the lip and just got held down. On my last attempt going left, I'm up and I think the same thing happened. I went flying ahead of my board and my teeth smacked real hard.  Thankfully no damage. I got worked over and over again. Today was the first time I covered up and protected myself with every spill (thanks to the safety advice from Mike in Hawaii). When changing these two locals kept giving me looks. I think the first time I also experienced mild localism.

PS--taking off my wetsuit I opened up my skateboard wound. I think today's session was a worse beating than the skateboard wipeout. I was seeing stars the whole way home.

Soft Shoulders & Shore Pound

You had to be right in the pocket today 'cause the shoulders were way soft--super soft. If you weren't right at the peak there was no ride. Even when there was, I dunno, it was pretty shaky. As soon as the wave would approach, I would look ahead and see a big shallow trough ahead of me. Pretty Scary--so I was very apprehensive. So much for the attack mode today. It was survival mode. Even coming in I got tossed hard  by the shore break and held under (the longest I've ever been down--round and round). Looking nice and clean out there though and should be dope this afternoon.

Right Frame Of Mind

Nice Action Photo

Went out with a new mindset today. I figure I'm out there between an hour and an hour and a half so I'm gonna go after everything hard--attack the waves. That didn't help. I still started out slow. Then I see this orca out there and she's killing it--catching everything is site and rocking 'em. Eventually I started to catch some. About a half dozen rides but nothing worthwhile. My last ride was the best (which is not saying much).  This green board is in my head. I'm way over thinking it and overly concerned with my position on the board. At the end of the day...
"Same as it ever was, same as it ever was"

Took Mark skateboarding yesterday. He's way better at boarding than surfing.  That's him riding Seacliff.

Shoulda Stayed Home

Called around to see where it might be working today. One shop told me they thought Gooch's would be the best because of the winds. Also the Chill Fest was spose to be going off today. Chill Fest is a surf contest that was scheduled between November and March depending on conditions--and they chose to have it today. We got to the Bunk and...well...There's Never Been A Wave That Glenn Didn't Like.

This had to be the worst wave I've ever been out in. The waves were doubled up, swirling left, swirling right--pure junk! I shoulda called the surf shop back and asked, "Where'd you get you information from?" With that being said I did catch a somewhat decent little ride. Shoulda stayed home. I think the waves were better. Oh well.

Stopping at the convenience store on the way back one guy says, "I thought you wiped it? So I showed him my battle scars. The other guy says, "Why don't you come back with your protective gear and put on an exhibition in the parking lot?"  I told him I just may do that. When I got my coffee there this morning another guy was asking me/telling me about my skating wipe-out. How news travels.

Oops!...I Did It Again

Helmet, Knee & Elbow Pads

Went out skateboarding again yesterday morning. Nothing serious...a little path I scoped out. I'm taking a left and hit a patch of sand. Do you know what happened next? Yup...Big Wave bit it again. This time I got road rash on my left side.  Once bitten, twice shy. Well actually twice bitten, twice shy. So I got some protective gear. After that I started skating Seacliff with Glenn. Now I probably don't need the gear for Seacliff, but I wore it anyway. A guy walking by looked at me and asked me if I lost a bet. That's how stupid I look, but I don't care. I mean no one wears protection on a longboard.

Goddess

Checked out all the spots today, but the winds weren't working with us

. It was blowing everything out. On the way home we stopped at a surf shop and I picked up the Goddess (that's the name of the board) so now I'll be able to surf the pavement when there's no action.

Update 7:15--Big Wave bit it hard. Went down SeaView and had too much
speed. I didn't see an out so jumped off board and tried to run.  I also skinned my hip, elbow, and ribs.  Big Wave will be a hurtin' unit tomorrow

It's Always Something

Shot over to Higgins--good choice on my part--it was pumping. The whole gang (of good surfers) was there. I catch the first one out of the shoot. I'm up going right and a guy drops in on me. He saw me and pulled out of the way. I've never been in that position and wasn't sure what was gonna happen so I kinda pulled out during my bottom turn. Caught the next two out of three. I was going good and then I started thinking about that first ride--what I should have done and I was all down hill from there.

I had this sweet right all lined up and I popped-up too soon--blah!!!  After a few missed attempts, I finally pulled it together and started getting some more waves (some bombs too), but now all of a sudden I'm getting way to aggro (surf lingo for aggressive) on my bottom turns. I need to really slow it down. I mean on one I was going left and literally did the letter U. Down and tried to go way back up--double blah!!! Another habit to break before it forms

Field Trip

House on right was my marker

Went to the Wall (NH) today. It had a stellar forecast! Don't believe the hype. Not as good as predicted, but still very, very good and very clean. I hit 61.5% of the waves I went for (8 out of 13) all lefts (backside) except for two. Today, I was the Hunter. On three rides I paddled out cause I saw the wave rising, turned real quick, took a couple of paddles and I was up and riding. I was real aggressive out there today. Like I said, I was the Hunter (usually I'm the hunted). I caught two steep drops which were cool. My board was planing out of the water (felt like just the tail was in the water). When I popped up, it couldn't help but go down--and down it did. Save the best for last--caught a mean left and it was time to go.

There was one guy out there who had a motor on his board. He never had to paddle out and when a wave was gonna close on him, he just hit the motor. I was talking to a couple of kids from Quebec after and we determined that the motor isn't really surfing.

Ladies Tee

Reports looked good for Ogunquit so we headed South. Once there we saw about 10 shortboarders ripping it. Ogunquit has a tight take off spot so I really didn't wanna go out cause we'd just be in the way. I asked a guy if he thought Kennebunk was working and he told us we could go out on the Ladies Tee (2nd peak). Glad we did.  Glenn caught a sweet ride right off the bat. He was coming right toward me so I saw the whole ride. I caught one going the other way--almost identical ride. We each had some good action today.  I think we coulda played the black tees.

Back To The Bunk

Hit Gooch's Beach again today. Not good like yesterday...or maybe BWD just not good. Had a couple of white water junk to the right and a flailing left (serious kookville). Noreen had a good session and I'm super-stoked for her. She caught some really nice rides!!!

It Only Takes One

So we hit the Bunk today. Right out of the gate Glenn gets the stink eye from a wave hog. A bunch of aggressive locals out there. This wave, like Ogunquit, looks small when approaching and grows real quick. Major adjustment for Big Wave on this type of wave. Had a bunch of bad attempts and goofy pops, but then...I was in the right position, angling for take-off. I'm up, have a nice drop, bottom turn--now I'm trimming high on the face, swoop down for another bottom turn and then ride it out. It only takes one to get the juices flowing. It also has been a long time since I've caught a real wave.

Going Backwards

Big Wave is getting worse and worse. At least I didn't have any knee rides today, so I guess slight progress. One was a pop and flop. I popped-up and flopped. And about an hour later I finally caught a wave--yippee. I popped-up and went left for a little baby ride. That was it. I did decide however....no more custom board. I'm gonna get a water hog. When I get that bad boy, watch out!

Hypnosis

I gotta go see a hypnotist. I know what I'm doing and yet I continue to do it. Five knee rides--pathetic!!! Only really attempted two--I mean where I actually popped up. One I went head over heels and on the other I made a nice little drop going left but couldn't hold on. I think I needed to grab the rail to hold it tight.

Anyway, here's a pic of today's action. This is from the 6th floor and the waves are bigger than they look. That's still no excuse for my mental block.

(Update 1/2 hr later) I just got off the phone with 2 surf shops. They think I'm having trouble adjusting to one and a half feet less board. Maybe so. There's an 8 year old girl about to go out by herself (parents on the beach watching) I bet she's gonna rip it. I gotta go watch her.

No Business

I had no business being out there. With that being said, I paddled out no problem and went for a bomb. Shoulda hit it, but somehow, someway I've gotten into this bad habit of going to my knees on big waves. I guess I've gotten scared between here and there. I've gotta break this habit--never use to do it.  Once on my knees, I'm killing myself for not popping up. This wave woulda been so dope and I chickened out! After that there was no way getting back out. I'll get ready for the afternoon. This was at high tide and it should be pumping all day.

(One Hour Later) I think I've figured it out. I don't have my longboard so I'm not looking down a plank when I'm getting ready to pop-up. Instead I'm looking down the wave. No security blanket. "I don't need no security, I just need me some peace."

Right Frame Of Mind (Doesn't Mean Jack)

Present From Bali. Quiksilver Monkey

Surf was so sweet yesterday--all day long. Unfortunately I missed it 'cause I was in a 5 hour-long booored meeting. I knew there would be remnants today so I got mentally prepared. I watched a lot of tutorials, basically a refresher course. I was all geared up.  Went to Higgins. Conditions were super glassy.  I saw everyone clustered way over to the right so I paddled out there. Next thing I know, I was practically swept to Scarborough Beach and at one point I was dangerously close to some rocks. I think I may have caught my four worst waves ever. On one I hit the drop and, I dunno, forgot to make a bottom turn. I think I figured out that while most people need to be in spot X--Big Wave (so big right now--or at least for the board he's riding) needs to be in spot W. I went for one where I popped up but lost balance. I continued to watch the wave and it just went on forever and ever--I was very upset and bummed. I would say this wave went on for 100 yards or so???

Upon leaving I saw Ivers (my favorite Higgins surfer--I like his style) and he told me it was all gouged up. I'm not exactly sure what that means. Then I stuck around to watch Ivers catch a few waves. Guys started ripping it.  Ironically they were all on longboards. One guy was up trimming the wave. I don't think I've ever seen someone up so high and tight to the wave--he was riding the edge the whole way and this guy was paddling out--kaboom--a nasty collision. It was obviously the paddler's fault. He should have tucked in behind the surfer and eaten some white water. God knows Big Wave has to do this all the time.

Worst Student Yet

Not much action today. I've been telling Mark for a long time that I'd bring him surfing. Today was the day. Perfect for learning. First things first, I had to go steal Noreen's foam board. She has a nice little quiver: a 9'4"foam board, a 7'2", an 8'0", a 9'0", a 9'4", and a SUP.

After the first attempt, Mark said, "I'm tired, I'm done." I mean I pulled him out and pushed him in. I don't know how he coulda been tired. He's a real trouper though. He can't swim and he went out in the ocean on Thanksgiving and Christmas--Fool. And he gave it a shot today. Just upset that I didn't get him up and riding. Maybe next time. He did, however, have the obligatory beverage after his session. So he got the full experience.

You Down Wit O.G.T

Got Some Day Glo Wax

Yeah you know me. Hit Ogunquit, but didn't have as much success as last time there. That wave is so tricky for me. I mostly rode white water (blaah!). There was one guy who rode some white water and was hooting and hollering. It must have been his first time so I was stoked for him.  I caught a couple where I was on the green wave, but nothing special. I did a ton of paddling and really felt it in my shoulders. Noticed a big stress crack in the nose of my board. I can't buy a break right now. While changing I was chatting with an old timer who gave me a lot of good advice. So all was not lost.

Kiddy Land

It's amazing how the waves can go from being so big one day to so small the next. Last night the waves sounded like houses were crashing down. So I went out and played in the nursery school playground.  It woulda been alright if I had a long board. I know, I sound like a broken record. I'm gonna have one custom-made (shaped) for me this summer, but I just don't have the extra cabbage right now so--until then I'll just continue to try with my funboard. If nothing else, I think it's gonna improve my paddling power. One can only hope.

Overhead Drop

So I decided to do a pre-surf exercise routine today. I'm gonna try and incorporate this before every session. Nothing major just some stretches, pop-ups, indo board etc.  Went to Higgins where the waves were good size(d). There was about 30 of us out there and even though we were scattered throughout it still felt like we were all clumped together. I went for one--I was up on the top of the wave. I had to really lean in/down. I made the drop on an overhead wave. That got the juices flowing.  It was tricky to slice through the other surfers when going for a wave (at least it was in my head).

Now I'm about to grab my best wave. I'm angled left, I'm gliding in the wave, I'm about to pop-up, I look to my right and a guy is up on the wave so I had to pull out--major bummer. I had this thing so lined up.  Next one I'm over the falls. Then I miss a couple 'cause I'm afraid of the rocks dead ahead of me. I scoot over so the rocks are out of play. Last ride of the day--I pop-up, lean in, make a head high drop (maybe higher) do a backside bottom turn and ride it home.

One Thing's For Certain

I need to get another longboard. Everyone caught waves today but me. Even the guy in the kayak crew is ripping it up right now in mush. The right board for the right wave. My 8'0 is definitely not right for mush. It wasn't yesterday and it wasn't today. That's why you need a quiver!  Oh yeah, so much for the week-long of good waves. Just not the case (but that's DickWeed for ya).

Double Play

The waves looked good at Higgins but they were mush. I am pretty good at telling if the wave is gonna be a right or left. "Clowns to the left of me, jokers to the right, here I am, stuck in the middle..." That's where I was on every wave--in the middle with the wave breaking towards me from both sides. It was junk

Scoreboard
Higgins 1, Big Wave 0

You Win Some You Lose Some

Well I lost today. Glenn had a good session. I mean I got up 5 times, but I didn't do any sufing. Glenn implemented this new paddle technique. I'm calling it the wounded duck, he calls it the double deuce. It worked out well for him. I may try this technique. Hoping to get two more sessions in today. The waves should be working all day.

Scoreboard
11th Street 1, Big Wave 0.

Scopin' Things Out

Noreen's Surfmobile--Loaded

We knew today was gonna be the day so we loaded up early and headed out around 7:00. Checked Fortunes. We've been going there a little before high tide but have determined it's more of a mid-tide spot. Moving on...since we've been jonesin' we went to Doc Browns. We were scopin' this place out. It's another high-tide spot and more importantly a point break. Man, the waves were so sweet--just peeling. We would've liked to get in, but there's a lot of rocks so we need to do some more scopin', specifically at low tide so we can see the lay of the land--particularly where all the rocks are.  I can't wait to hit this spot though.

Higgins Beach is on the way back so of course we were gonna do some more scopin' even though we know it's a low to incoming-tide spot. What's going on....Higgins is working at high tide--sweet. I mean I've seen this before, but not that common. Anyway, I caught 8 out of 10. A good session. My last ride I hit the drop, cruised a bit, out ran the section (that's where there's a patch of breaking white water in front of you), got back on the face, and  did a little top turn, bottom turn combo.

Major Withdrawal

Those Are Some Sticky Bumps

It's been rough since my last time out. Flat, flat, and flat again tomorrow. Saturday should be pumping and good for a whole week (keeping fingers crossed).  I've been reading up on tube riding--not that I'll get there again, but it looks like I started out doing things right. Angled take-off, tight to the wave, and deep in the pocket. I just cleaned off my board and re-waxed it. I know this sounds stupid, but it was my best wax job yet. In part, because I got some basecoat wax. It's tuff to find at the local shops, but it is so critical. Basically just getting geared up for Saturday.  Oh, I also filed down my fins to sit flush.

Super Stoked

First off I had to hit the surf shop. My board hasn't had any bite to it. I had to get some new fins. Basically, they give you the cheapest fins with a board and mine had no hold. When I walked into the shop, Mark (shop owner) asked me if I've been anywhere exotic lately. It was pretty cool especially since I haven't seen him in a long time.  He remembers my Hawaiian and Californian adventures. I told him yeah, "I'm about to hit the Rivermouth."  I surfed the Main Beach in Ogunquit before, but never the Rivermouth.  So I got these mean new fins. I need to file them down so they sit flush in the fin box (as you can see they are raised a bit).

The wave was tough for me to negotiate at first. It's very much like Malibu where it looks like nothing and jacks up on you at the last second. Much different than what I am use to in OOB and Higgins which tend to linger forever. Missed a few at first--getting use to the wave. Then I caught a left, still feeling out the wave. I grab a right where I was so deep in the pocket. I have never been that deep before. I was just cruising and checking out the curl. On the next one (I don't know how to describe it) I got semi-tubed. I  know that's not a term, but that's what I'm calling it. I was deep in the pocket again and the wave was rolling over my head. I scooted down a bit and then the wave crashed/closed hard on me. It was so cool.  After the ride I yelled, "Yeah!!!"

I went back to the surf shop to get advice on how to really get tubed when I'm in that situation.  The guy said, "see it's the fins." I think it was more the wave, but maybe they helped me stay deeper in the wave. Then he told me to scoot down real low and then transfer my weight forward to shoot out. I can't wait to get full on barreled!

No Foolin' Here

"He travels the fastest who travels alone."  Just make sure you're not traveling with a kayaker and three surfers. This crew is always out at the wrong time. Caught a mean left where I was hummin'. Then I was caught up in the curl with no exit as it was quickly approaching the shore. I couldn't kick out. Basically I was trapped in the curl so I did a dive bomb before it closed hard. My board went crashing and I thought for sure I was gonna break this one too. Ain't that the truth Holmes--no foolin'

Noreen Killed It

My friend Noreen paddled out to Eagle Island and back. One mile each way. She's been planning this for a bit. I was skeptical, but she absolutely rocked it. She didn't fall once.  The only hazard was some seagulls were harassing her out at the island--being protective.

Great Job Noreen!!!

Spring Training

Not much action anywhere today so we gave Fortunes a shot.  There were small little waves with a pretty quick period. Got a lot of good practice in. I caught a nice groove with my paddling and made some solid strides.  I had a great feel for the board and was real confident with my popups.  Of course I was, the waves were small--but everything just felt right. I didn't do anything on the waves...it was just a good training day.

Looks Can Be Deceiving

Waves looked good at the ube, unfortunately they had no joules. No joules means no power. No power means no rides--plain and simple. Shoulda bucked up and hit Higgins. The session, or lack thereof, was a total waste and a real morale de-booster. The only good thing is my suit smelled nice.

7 Deep

Washing my stinky gear...way overdue

Hit Higgins for the evening session. It was kinda crowded out there. Only caught two; one right and one left. At the end I went for a killer wave, shoulda hit it, but ended up doing a belly flop--Owwww!  There was one girl out there just laughing away when she'd miss the wave. Now that's the attitude. They say the surfer who's having the most fun is the best surfer. She was definitely the best surfer today.

The Nub

Started the day off at Fortunes--too sloppy. Next stop Gooch's. The waves were so sweet and glassy at Kennebunk, but way too close to shore. Off to the Rivermouth.  Ogunquit was messy. Hey we came this far, might as well check out Long Sands. Glad we made the trek 'cause there were waves.  I hit a nice backside right out of the gate where I was working the wave up and down.  Had a few other funky rides, but the first one was the best. I never realized the Nubble Lighthouse overlooks Long Sands.

Can I Get A Woo Woo

Finally caught some waves on the funboard. Too bad they weren't bigger, but it was good. Actually did a bottom turn and worked the wave a bit. Mostly junk, but I got some good practice in. Watched a good YouTube video this morning which helped me out. I think I got the jist of this board now and I'm ready to rock.

Baby Steps

That's where I'm at. Taking it day by day with the green board. I'm popping up, but not much else.  Dumped my broken board off the other day. Still not sure if 'ole trusty' can be fixed. I'll find out next week sometime.
Anyway...one step at a time.

Short Session

Just Another Kook

It was a very short session yesterday. Waves were peeling so nice. First attempt I popped up too soon and the wave passed me by (I was ready to rock the green board). Then Glenn drops in backside on his first wave.  He yells to me that he's cut. He wanted to stay out there, but I told him we had to go. Blood in the water...not a good thing.

Anyway, after his ride I guess the board came back and smacked him in the head. We were out there--I don't know maybe 10-15 minutes, then off to the ER.

No Waves

That's alright...no problem.  Hit the cemetery and did a little skateboarding. I was a little apprehensive without a helmet, knee pads, elbow pads, and wrist guards. I went down a little hill which seemed like a mountain to me.

This is Glenn's board. He was cool--guiding me at first (holding onto his arm like training wheels). When not surfing or skating...I rock the Indo

Practice, Practice & More Practice

The last two days were bad. Now reduced to one board I need a lot of practice. There were killer waves two days ago, but I was just in the way. It felt like the beginning. A guy was up and I had to paddle around him to get out of the way (did good though). On another it was a party wave...one guy going right, one left and I had to part the Red Sea. Like I said I was just in the way. A guy was rocking a wave headed straight for my floating board...I couldn't find my leash to yank it out of the way. Fortunately I found it at the last second before he would have crashed my board hard....No one likes a kook out there. The only redeeming thing is I did all the right things to avoid catastrophe. But at some point you have to just get lost.

Yesterday (again) I did nothing, but... I think I finally found the sweet spot on my green board and had a lot of paddling practice as there was nothing for me to attempt. Glenn got some good waves, BWD got some good practice.

Just Like Starting Over

Another rough day. I'm really unstable on my green board and it's just like starting over. I've gotta get a good feel for this thing. When I pop up it feels so shaky.  Just gotta put the time in I guess. The board does look mean though.

Big Wave Has Big Problems

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times... No, it was the worst of times. I pulled my board out of my bag only to notice it is cracked in half (from rail to rail). It must have snapped on my funky wipe out yesterday. So I had to grab the green machine (funboard) which I am not all that comfortable with. Needless to say I didn't catch anything.

Glenn wants me to let the world know that he is a Big P. Well I can't say (family friendly forum), but use your imagination. I think what he is trying to say is that he needs to commit and not be afraid.

Every break has hazards that are listed such as: reefs, sharks, localism, etc.
The only hazard at my home break is park benches in the water.

Bollocks

Glenn made a bee-line out to the break--no sweat. About an hour later, I think, I kinda-sorta got out there, but not really. I was sitting, waiting, getting crashed, pummeled, and abused. Finally, I had enough and decided it was time to come in. Plus is was overcast, grey water, seagulls were swarming overhead--a little scary. A wave was reforming. This was my opportunity (which actually ended up being a kookville ride). I was up and the wave was about to pass me by so I leaned in/down and made the drop. I'm starting my bottom turn and my back leg slips off the board. My knee crashes the board then my body. I was done. I gotta make sure to wax up the board before next session. Having seen me out there you woulda thought I had never surfed before

DLS

Finally day light savings is back. Without it, there wouldn't have been a session tonight. We startled out at the Cliff. It looked like sweet potatoes. Unfortunately there was no getting out. Packed our gear up and hit 11th. I hit the drop, did a bottom turn, a cutback, another bottom turn, and then a kick out. I have never done so much on a wave. Definitely my best yet. Year Four is looking promising!!!

This will give you an idea of what a cutback is
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9askal--IL8

Happy Anniversary To Me

Ah--to be young again

So today marks the 3rd anniversary of my first wave. Went to Pine Point. That was the only place to go. The wind was so strong everywhere--even there, but Pine Point is somewhat protected. I tried paddling out and was about to give up as I was exhausted. Then I saw a shortboarder go out so I decided to give it another shot. If he can make it out, so can I. Finally got out and had to rest for a while (BWD only longboarder out there--much more difficult to get out on a longboard). After bobbing in big waves for a while (and rested) I gave it a go. It was so windy that I was getting sprayed in the eyes as I paddled for the wave. I popped up and was getting sprayed/pelted even more. I dropped down--not in, but literally down--liking free-falling 6 feet. I couldn't see at all and I landed at the bottom of the wave and wiped out.  After turtling 3 or 4 more times outside, I decide to ride some white water in. Just like my first time.

Guess Who's Back...

Guess who's back, back again, Big Wave's back, tell a friend,guess who's back. Finally caught a wave. Did a nice bottom turn where my back hand was dragging the face. On another I did a baby cutback--nothing special but still cool.  Then Go Pro Glenn caught a sweet ride

Stink Pipe

Glenn's been scoping out this wave for a long time. I don't think anyone has ever surfed it so it is his break. I mean he checks it out all the time so I said, "Let's Hit It." We got in the water. Wow did it smell. Upon return, I told Glenn we should call it waste water. He didn't like that so I suggested, stink pipe, shit hole, or cesspool. He said no to all of the above. All I know is that I was careful not to take in water, turtle roll or anything. This place smelled bad. The waves were great though.  All in all it's Glenn's spot so I guess he can name it. My vote is for stink pipe.

"What's Goin' On"

East Coast Chop today.  Running around in circles in my head. No luck again today. Started to drop with a scootch stance and notta. Just ain't happening for Big Wave. Picked the wrong spot today. Higgins is hopping and I attempted the Cliff.

""So I wake in the morning and I step outside

And I take deep breath and I get real high

And I scream from the top of my lungs

What's goin' on"

Tumbleweed At The Cliff

Same thing. Went out in some good-sized stuff. I'm up making the drop and kaboom. I tumbled over and over. I don't know what's going on lately other than the fact that I'm not catching anything. I may go back to the 2 + 1 fin setup. Hey, I'll try anything at this point.

It's Not The Board

Hit Higgo about head high plus. The paddle out was crazy the sweep was massive. Finally got out. Phew. So many shortboarders rockin'-- it was one and done for me. Got up was hitting the drop...half way down I bit it. We'll try again another day. It really crushes the ego.

Hodad Glenn lost his board in the lineup and had to have someone bring him into shore. Have I told you about our tv show? 2kooks surfing in Maine.  website--2kooks.com

Timing

It's all about the timing. Went out in monsters--wrong tide though. Got out, but didn't do anything. I'm gonna pull the longboard out of retirement (retired for one session). I don't have my groove on the funboard (Actually too fat for it to float). Getting ready for low tide. I should be able to rock these things.

Me & Stoney McGee

Killer waves coming all next week, especially Monday and Wednesday. I've been telling Glenn that I can't sit around all day waiting for tomorrow.  I guess he took it to heart 'cause he dragged me out in slop (again).  Probably 'cause I've been telling him I got new game and new moves. I've been doing my homework.  I'm gonna retire my longboard and start ripping the fun board.

While out there today a seal pokes his head up between us and says, "hi." With that we were gone. You know whose favorite meal is the seal!

Go Pro Glenn

We missed it today. Went early morning to check out a (brand new) secret spot. It was flatter than a pancake.  Went to Fortunes. This place was pumping. Un-fortunes-ately, we didn't have our gear. These were probably the best waves I've seen in Maine.  They were peaky and punchy. Then everything died out.

We went out at the UBE and here's Go Pro Glenn..

Misguided

Some people have their priorities all messed up. Good waves this morning. Glenn got a GoPro. That's cool. Anyway he wasted 45 minutes trying to get the thing hooked up (he's had it for a week). I texted him the age old adage: the waves wait for no one. Yet he messed around setting up the go pro. Apparently the go pro is more important than the surf. A true surfer would have surfed and set up the cam during down time--not Glenn.

45 minutes later we got in the water. Needless to say the waves were gone. Hope you got that thing set up Glenn!!!!

Mixing it up

Tried something new tonight. Put on everything backwards/opposite. Usually put left foot in wetsuit first. Well I tried the right first first and so on. Waves were small, but hey...what the heck. Caught one nice left and that was about it.

Until next session....

Goof Ball

How goofy can you get? I had the goofiest ride imaginable. I can't even describe it other than total goof ball!
Might be time to hang this gig up for a while and get refocused.

That's Glenn bobbing downtown