Unconditional Surrender

What did we learn today? There is no surf on the Gulf Coast. At least that's what everyone tells me. Went to Longboat Key, Siesta Beach, Turtle Beach, Caspersen Beach, Venice Beach and Lido Beach. At Caspersen Beach people are collecting Shark Teeth.

So tomorrow, I'm headed to Cocoa Beach on the East Coast. I'll probably be shooting over each day. We'll see. Old Orchard and Higgins blows the Gulf Coast away (as far as surf is concerned).

Bust

No waves at Cape Hatteras. Met one guy from NJ who was gonna go out. I was gonna join him but couldn't find a shop open to rent a board. The waves were probably rockin' back home. I'm now chillin' in Florida. Hopefully they'll be some good action this week.

In my room, on top of the armoire is a framed photograph of a surfer (silhoutte) riding a thick wave. My dad never knew it was there. My mom put the picture there. Weird. Hey I'm in the surfer suite.

Florida Bound Via Hatteras

Rolled in around midnight to Kill Devil Hills Beach, NC. Major delays (took 6 hrs in NJ). When cruising in to the OBX there's a billboard..."No Shirt, No Shoes, No Problem." No Doubt a surfing community.

Off to Cape Hatteras although it looks like there's gonna be no surf action today. Worst case, It's rated 4th nicest beach in America

pic is of Kill Devil Hills Beach aka Nags Head

Holiday Cheer

I must have been good 'cause Santa brought me some waves. The crew was hoot'n and holler'n, just havin' a good time. One guy said, "The Ultimate Christmas Party!"--right on.

Merry Christmas to All!!!

Brilliant

You know who is smart? The scratch. People say don't scratch it will make things worse. Ah, but the scratch is so tempting. It offers temporary relief. Ah, the scratch--you feel so good. How can I resist you. The scratch is very smart.

It Only Takes One

Well I still got a rash. The good news is it's only on my hips and neck and it's tolerable. The hips is weird, I must waddle when I paddle for the waves. Many people experience wetsuit rash on the neck so I'm not too concerned there.

Man, I have never worked so hard for so little. I was missing every wave. I kept looking over my shoulder to see if Ken was filming, 'cause that would explain it. Ah, but I would soon be reminded...it only takes one good wave.

Even better news. The days are getting longer. You know what that means? Time to catch one more wave.

Scuba Gear

"Testing, attention please." I went surfing the scuba shops. I ended up with a full body rash guard (basically a wetsuit under my wetsuit.) Either I'll be good tomorrow or I'll be bummin'.

Right now it doesn't really matter 'cause I rode some waves today. Only caught four but three of 'em were real dope. It was also snowing so that was cool.

Pilgrimage

Excerpt from "Riding Giants"

"When I was in school, I was flunking French and my teacher said, 'what are you gonna do when you get out? When you graduate? You know you have to pass this'...

I said, I'm gonna go surfing. I'm going to the North Shore. I'm gonna make my pilgrimage to the North Shore. I'm gonna ride big waves and if I don't die, then I'll figure out what to do...

I'm going there to ride big waves, to find out who I am."--John Milius

Ease the Pain

I'm watching these two surfers and they're not catching waves. They're popping up way too early. Seeing them miss the waves pains me more than this rash. So I went out to give them some friendly advice. What really fries me is that there was a good surfer right next to them and he never offered any help.

While on the beach, a lady pours a bottle of water into the ocean. It's water she just brought back from Hanalei Bay. How dope is that! Now there's a little bit of Aloha in Old Orchard.

Pure Torture

As I look out my window, I see a guy headed out to surf. I on the other hand am finishing an oatmeal bath and dousing myself with Calamine lotion.

Done

My rash is back twofold.

All Lubed Up

The waves have been insane the past three days, however, there was no getting out Monday & Tuesday. I watched two guys try to paddle out for a 1/2 hr yesterday before giving up.

Secret Spot! I found a secret break today. The waves are alright, but the food is fabulous. After the surf, I was treated to some incredible pasta fagioli and a homemade ham sandwich to die for. I'll probably hit this spot everyday.

Yeah, today was the first day in my new wetsuit. I lubed up real good with some Vaseline. It's almost been a week since my last wave and paddling was tiring today--I was huffin' and puffin'. My niece asked me what I wanted for Christmas. She also told me that she only had $10 to spend. I should've asked for a tub of Vaseline. Instead, I asked for a stick of wax. That should keep her way under budget.

Xcel

The people at Xcel are cool. They're gonna call Liquid Dreams tomorrow and issue a credit on my wetsuit. They think I may be allergic to the Bamboo fibers in the suit. Xcel is located in Oahu, the surfing capital of the world. They don't fool around. "Good Service is Good Business."

I know, all the women have been telling me, "Big Wave you have very sensitive skin."

Did I Mention Nasty?

I have a nasty rash all the way from my head to my toes and I mean everywhere--Nasty!
I'm on my way to the surf shop to pick up some rash guard shorts. They brought 'em in overnight for me.

I caught one wave this morning where the wave was barrelling over my board. If it were a big wave, I would have been in the tube. Seriously,I was trimming the wave and my board was in a mini tube.

Goo Goo G'Joob

Ended today's session at 5:00 under a crescent moon (sunset was at 4:06). There is only one danger at Higgins, a set of rocks. I was being swept awfully close to the rocks. Here comes a nice right hand wave...I had to go for it. I'm up and headed straight toward the rocks. I had to swerve around the rocks--it was pretty cool.

I've just changed outdoors in 23 degree weather wearing a flannel shirt, jeans, and no socks. At the store, I see a guy wearing a knee-length wool coat, a scarf, and leather gloves. We're both coming home from work. I like my job.

"I'm not going to change the way I look or the way I feel to conform to anything." - John Lennon

Going Global

Here's the skinny. Good small waves at home, but I went to Higgins instead. Even smaller at Higgins. Caught 4 and bolted. Drove home in my wetsuit. I'm not getting in and out of this thing any more than I have to. Got home and some old time surfer from Tejas starts talking to me. By the time were done, it's closeout city.

Here we go again. I've developed a serious wetsuit rash (check out blog entry "sidelined" June 16,2010). I guess this happens (to me) when they're new? I think there's some chemical or something that needs to be flushed out. My suit is gonna take a nice long bath tonight. Wow, I'm itching all over.

I just realized my blog has a stats page. I've got hits from: Canada, Indonesia, Spain, South Africa, Singapore, Latvia, Germany, Russia, and Slovenia. The surf report is going global.

New Rules in Effect

Early curfew the night before surfing. I caught the first three waves and then I was burnt toast. I was spent. I was up too late last night. Surfing takes a lot of energy you know. Especially getting in and out of that crazy winter suit.

Although...I didn't have my Monster energy drink this morning. Hmmm. The curfew may be postponed until more research is conducted.

Sloppy

It was sloppy throughout the whole State. I'm getting smart though. I called all the surf shops to see how the conditions were at their break. I ventured out to Doc Browns. Legend has it that Doctor Brown had to stitch up surfers as they got washed up on the rocks, thus the name. I saw this horse on the way there.

Then I went to scope out Prout's Neck. This is where Winslow Homer painted many of his masterpieces. I think it would be cool to surf out there. Like Kauai, there are crazy chickens on the way to Prout's.


I saw a few yahoos try to go out at Higgins, but I knew better. There's no way they were gonna get out through the slop.

Bright & Early

Shot down to Ogunquit first thing to get some winter gear. The guy was a half hour late opening--typical surfer. Technology is amazing!!! I was actually hot out in the water today (warmer than in my apartment). Downside to the winter gear is it's a chest zip. Getting out of this thing is like pulling a Houdini act. Getting in isn't much easier. For my next trick, I will escape from a straight jacket.

I caught 11 of the 15 waves I went after. One wave I thought was gonna break right but it broke left. I had to change my angle midstream to go left. Putting Ru Hill's advice to practice. I was also hunting the waves today and competing with other surfers for them. We were so far outside I could actually see Scarborough Beach from the lineup. !!!


I got the winter gear at Black Friday prices. I also picked up "Pipeline Masters" and "Billabong Trilogy" so tonight's agenda is set. Oh, on Black Friday I hit a hot yoga class with Deena (tough stuff). Then goofy Deena and goofy Dave hit a double feature. We are experts at choosing bad movies.

Never Fails

Whenever there is a nice offshore wind, there a no waves!

Googins

When it's tough getting out to the break, I'm the only one out there. The surfers must know something I don't. Maybe they're looking at the time between waves?

After lugging my stuff back up from Higgins and looking out my window, I decided I had to hit it--so out I went. I'm thinkin' they should rename Googins Rocks to Dave's Rocks. I'm the only one who surfs between the rocks and it truly is my home break.

Well gotta get ready to go do some headstands. Hey Ken, you better have that video camera juiced up next time your at Dave's Rocks.

Wants & Needs

I want to surf and I need to surf. While picking up my morning Monster, a weathered old man said to me, "Surf's Up." Granted, I'm still sporting the boardshorts and checkerboard Vans.

Oh no, here we go again. I started out slow mostly avoiding those who were catching waves. Then things started to take shape (caught about a dozen rides today). After a long lull, three of us went after and caught the same "party wave". We all did the bottom turn at the same time--it was pretty cool. It reminded me of party waves at the 'bu.

I hit two waves where I dropped down and did a sweeping bottom turn to climb back up the face and then pulled a top turn.

Oh yeah, I know how I caught the waves yesterday. It's my new mantra. "Don't Fear the Wave--Catch the Wave".

Back In Business Again

I actually caught some real waves today. Go figure. How did I catch them? No clue. What I do know and what I had forgotten is the incredible feeling when catching a wave. I'm telling you there is nothing like it. My last ride was real dope. I was considering going back out, but decided to end on a high note.

Funk

There were 30 of us in the water. 29 were catching waves. I had to go play on the inside. I'm in a major funk. So much so that I'm considering putting my board up on Craig's List.

Surfing 101

There was a lot of white water rolling in so I couldn't get out past the break. Perfect opportunity to get back to basics. I worked on the paddle, pop-up, proper stance and keeping my arms outside the rails.

Optimistic

I've been watching some instructional videos on You Tube called, Big Whiteboard Wednesday. I've been doing everything wrong. This guy is really great at explaining how to surf. Every correction that you would assume and make is counterintuitive in surfing. I've been trying to have no thoughts, be one, etc. No, no, no--you have to be thinking all the time. Surfing is a very territorial sport and other surfers don't tell you how to surf 'cause they don't want you taking their waves. I'm optimistic as I hope to kill it out there tomorrow.

UPDATE: It's now 11:52 p.m. and I have just re-watched the videos. Wow, my mind is in overdrive. Let's see, these are the things I have been doing wrong: the turtle roll, the push up, the way I get back on the board, the approach to getting past the break, where I setup for waves, being hunted by the waves as opposed to hunting them, the paddle to catch the wave, not fully utilizing my peripheral vision, body positioning on the board, hand placement during the pop-up, the stance (shifting weight), and the arm placement once up. The only thing in my favor is that I do have the right attitude!!! Again, wow...so much to be conscious of.

I just e-mailed the guy, thanking him for sharing his wealth of surfing knowledge.

Making Progress

I caught one wave today. On another try, I was up on a steep wave and both me and my board torpedoed straight down into the water.

While sitting on my board beyond the break, I was watching the waves (from behind). As soon as they started to break, a rainbow would appear.

I don't know what's up. I've been fearful of the oncoming waves. I've even tried some Ujjayi breathing with no luck. I'm calling it bad karma.

Diminishing Skills

Well let's look at the bright side! While I only caught two waves, they were nice rides. My first one was the fastest yet.

I've been having a real fear of popping up lately. The wave grabs me, but I'm hesitant and just stay on my stomach.

I guess at this stage in the game, I'll take quality over quantity. That's a good spin.

California All Over Again

Man, I can't catch anything right now. Ken came out again today to try and catch some video. You've gotta catch a wave first. This Standard Time is a killer. I think I'm just out there at the wrong tides but have no choice 'cause of lighting.

That's all right--low tide tomorrow at 6:41 a.m. Take that Standard Time--see you bright and early!

This is all I've got, a pic from a few days ago--paddling for a wave.

A Dollar Late And A Day Short

First off--reverting back to Standard Time is not cool for surfing!!! Yesterday afternoon, Ken came out with me to get some video. Unfortunately, nothing made it past the cutting room floor. I had one sweet wipeout while trying to catch a good-sized wave but we didn't get it on film.

Today, I was going after a wave with four other people. Usually I would yield to better surfers--also the wave belongs to whoever catches it deepest (or closest to the peak). I was the only one who caught the wave.

Andrew in Hawaii told me "the water gonna be cold brahda." The water is not bad with the wetsuit, but it sure is cold getting out with a lot of heavy, chilling breathing.

Nearly Shutout

My bed is setup right at the window so when I wake up the first thing I see is the waves. And believe me, my eyes were wide open when I woke up this morning. The waves were and are still off the hook.

I was missing everything (maybe a little scared). This would be the third day in a row without catching a wave and then the next thing I know...I'm riding backside high on the face of a mean wave. I was hummin' down the line.

From an article in last Sunday's newspaper,"And I learned that life can begin at 40. All you have to do is go surfing."

Juiced for an afternoon session!

Slight Problem

Today the waves were like those in my dreams. They were awesome. Only problem was that I couldn't get out past the break. So close but yet so far. I tried for an hour and couldn't there--always just beyond reach.

This pic does not do justice to the difficulties faced today.

Fool In The Rain

The sky was crying and she had a somber gray face. There were no sets to speak of, just endless rows of white wash pouring in. If you ever want a sense of how small you really are, strap on a board and paddle in the fury with no visual sense of direction. The Ocean had a violent sweep pushing an eighth of a mile in a matter of seconds. Like a fool in the rain (with no one around), I continued in vain.

Tongue In Cheek

There's no need to vote. I saw two separate networks declare a winner with 0 precincts closed and each candidate having 0 official votes. In the future, the networks will vote for us, or just simply tell us who they put in office.

Good news...waves coming Thursday-Sunday. I hope this prediction is right.

Good Question

I was asked yesterday, "Hey Big Wave does one wave stand out above the rest?" That's a good question. It's a tough one to answer...it's really close between the last wave and the next wave!

It's cool when driving home someone honks their horn and throws you a Shaka.

Let's Rock The House

It was nice to be out in a lineup again. The dynamic is really cool...wait your turn and catch the wave. You have to catch it. There was about 15 of us out there. I'm thinking to myself, "doesn't anyone work?"

"I think one reason people are drawn to the ocean is the feeling you get the minute you dive into the water. You can instantly feel it's power and instantly respect all it's power and beauty. This is definitely one reason that surfers are so addicted to surfing and will give up everything they have and own just to be able to hit the waves everyday. Surfing is a lifestyle, religion and a way of life for surfers, it's what they live for everyday that they're alive."--Jason Fackrell

I did really well today. I was in complete control from the moment I started paddling. I was catching chest-high peelers no problem and rocking the waves. I was riding one frontside and dragging my hand on the face.

Without Love

...where would you be now?" The last ride of the day was magical.
"The ocean is lower than all rivers, yet all rivers flow into it."

Alive, She Cried

The Ocean has been dormant for the past ten days. Today she rose from a deep sleep. I felt alive for the first time when I caught the first wave. I too was awakened from a deep sleep. I have a lot of work to do. All the others catch waves with such ease and lack of effort. I tried to have no thoughts, be one, and just flow with the energy. All in good time. "Something will come from nothing. Without nothing there can not be something."

Smack

Curiosity didn't kill the cat...it was complacency!!! Deep down in the underground laboratories of the Ball-Z Corp., we're bringing the game to the twenty first century.

More Of The Same

Today was a repeat perfomance of yesterday. I couldn't do any of the poses at yoga. I missed the train.

Defeated & Demoralized

I went to watch Samantha's soccer game this morning. She is a scoring machine. They limit her to 2 goals per game.

The waves were real nice today. I've been reading books on being one with the wave and all that. I was out for a strong 2 hours and didn't catch jack. Not even one wave. I did a nice face plant though.

Are You For Real

Friday October 8th

Alberto calls Thursday night. We've got problems. First thing Friday I'm hitting trim shops again (I'd rather be trimming waves). Running from shop to shop with no luck is worse than going from beach to beach and finding no waves.

Hey did you know this guy is still around? Speaking of which, my boy is gonna be moving to Maryland. Head home--I think not. One last time to rock it in Boston. I can't fill you in on anything more than that.

Hangin With The Girls

Thursday October 7th

First things first. I am a master at riding the Ferry. Picked up all my skills from John over at Peaks Island. Lady Liberty is a true beauty.

Caught up with Elaine. I haven't seen her in ages.... We went to see a comedy show at Comix. New York is an expensive place. Elaine tells me it cost $50 just to walk out the door in the morning. True enough. Hey Elaine, sneak a peek around those buildings, look up and hopefully you see her.

A bunch of tourists got a hold of this shot. They were lovin it.

Action Packed

Wednesday October 6th

Why did I stay in Queens again? Oh, that's right...to Surf!!! Hit Long Beach in the morning. The waves at this spot come in much different than home. There was an adjustment period before I started to catch some good stuff. Had a smoothie for lunch. Appropriately, it's called the "Beach Bum".

Surfed Lido Beach in the afternoon. While sitting on my board planes are flying directly overhead. I'd say only about 500-600 feet in the air. I'm kinda freakin'. Just glad Sully wasn't flying...he likes to land in the water.

Next stop...New York Comedy Club. I was gonna get this pic for the blog, then the crowd said tell some jokes so I obliged.

Wait, we're not done yet. Shot over to Bleecker where I saw this amazing guitarist. I was rapping with him til the wee hours of the morning. I'm pumping him up so much. He slips a cd in my jacket. I'm now reading the liner notes. I was chillin with Grammy Nominee, John Primer. It says, "John should be credited for helping Muddy Waters bring the Blues to Chicago." If you ever have the chance to see John Primer...I highly recommend it. This guy ROCKS!!!

Aaaaaah!!!

Tuesday October 5th

Finished my work with Alberto by noon. Hit the Central Park Zoo. What a sweet zoo! The sea lions are real posers. It was a great day for a walk in the Park.



Have I mentioned that my feet are killing me. I haven't worn shoes in a long time either. I end up at Quiksilver SoHo. They've got stuff in my size. I leave the store wearing my slippahs and my feet let out a huge sigh of relief, Aaaaaah!!!

Got Trim

Monday October 4th

Startled the day off in a wrestling match with the ironing board. In all my years, I've yet to figure out this beast. Love my Jiffy Steamer!!! Had to dress up to go meet Alberto.

The F train to the city is a looooong ride(really messed up in where I stayed). Haven't worn clothes, "since I don't know when". Man was I hot. I could feel the beads of sweat slowy rolling down my body.

Anyway...I walked the fashion district, hitting trim shops from 9:00 am to 6:45pm while lugging all my surf gear.

Road Trip

Sunday October 3rd

The best part of a road trip has to be the tunes. Heard "Seasons in the Sun" by Terry Jacks (go back and read blog entry Back Track--Terry Jacks March 10, 2010). Had a good vibe rollin' in.

"People goin' ridin' on the subway...subway." I was the only white boy on the F train and the only person wearing shorts (boardshorts). Hit 5 Quiksilver & Billabong shops--none of them had slippahs or shorts in my size.

Nice Waves

What Nicole lacked yesterday, she made up for today! Nice offshore wind, glassy, chest-high conditions. I got tossed and pearled about the first ten I went after. If I pull that stunt in New York, I'll get booted from the lineup. Finally I started catching some really good rides. Then a flock of seagulls was hovering overhead and I figured it was time to roll. I boogey-boarded in.

Off to New York tomorrow so the blog will be on hold for a week (chillin' in the ghetto, no safety box in my room), but I'm sure I'll update the surfing adventures when I return.

Chop Suey

They were calling for 8ft at Higgins. Yeah, choppy mush soup that was eight feet deep. I rode the froth four times before bolting. Like a kook, I drove to Old Orchard with my wetsuit on (normally I would change) trying to hit something there. More of the same. There was a stong onshore wind with waves 3 seconds apart--chop suey. Tough going today.

Floaties

I'm not exactly sure what red tide is, but for the past two days I have been surrounded by red moss-like floaties in the water. I'm calling it red tide. Walking back in I see a clam shell in the water and I pick it up. It is a big live surf clam. His foot (or neck) was out and he immediately pulled it back in. I don't remember the walk home ever being so steep.

Top Turn

Played the loop de loop game yesterday. I'm starting to find out that whenever I have to go to that many spots, there's probably no surf, but I play nonetheless. Look at Higgins with their sign. That only prompts me to park on the street.

Caught some surf at home today. Small but good. I was riding the shoulder and did a top turn. I also had one where I was teeter-tottering on top of the wave and moved forward down the drop. All-in-all a good day.

At It Again

We all got a good laugh in the water tonight. Magic Seaweed is calling for double overhead on Friday. As if, their report is always calling for much bigger than it ever is. Had some good runs tonight. Was actually pumping the wave on one.

I got a repair kit to fix my bootie. After the repair, the boil doubled in size. Also the super glue let go on my slippah.

"The inner self is a great place. It's closer than most people think and it is nearly perfect. When a person can find a way to access this wonderful state at will, there is no worry about being caught inside again. Surfing has an endless supply of lessons to teach us."-Gerry Lopez

Obvious

I went to the bookstore and asked an employee, "where's the sports section?" She said, "that depends the sports have been broken up into two sections. For instance, the surfing books are over there." For real, that's what she said. The woman at the register asked me if I was a surfer.

No waves today so I'm chillin out reading "Surf Is Where You Find It" by Gerry Lopez.

"When you stare into the abyss the abyss stares back at you"- Friedrich Nietzsche

Little Duck

For the first hour it was me and a little duck out there. The duck does a beautiful duck dive (paddling out technique for shortboards--instead of a turtle roll). I was able to work on my frontside turn. I'm actually better on the backside turn. Like everything else in my life, this is totally backwards. I was up and riding twice when I had to turn to avoid an oncoming surfer paddling out. This was cool. Normally, I would just bail, but today I actually stayed on my board, turned around the guy and continued my ride.

Boink

Everything is falling apart. My bootie is letting water in. Look at that boil. My slippah broke. I was able to fix that with a little super glue. And I have been real lazy changing lately...dropping my boardshorts before I have my towel on.

Missed more waves than I caught today. Peru would have said the Ocean was confused. The waves were good height, but coming in real choppy and all crazy. The only time I don't protect my head when wiping out...I surface and here comes my board falling from above...boink, right on my head. No blood, keep surfing.

Last Waves of Summer

Caught a few good ones early on. It was a workout getting out there. Even though I was tired, I kept turtling. After all they're the last waves of Summer. By the end, I was chasing. I think I gave some advice to some young chaps about chasing in the second blog entry.

Looking forward to Fall surfing!!!

Gotta Earn The Next Ride

I must have turteled 10 times to get beyond the break (way too much work). The sets just kept coming. I rocked three waves and got rocked on a few others.

I started to hit one overhead drop and went flying. I was up on my board and going straignt down the face. If only I coulda turned. I was a little scared too.

Hopefully, I will get the hang of this before the end of summer.

Morning Quickie

The sun was barely over the horizon, shining in my eyes. While paddling for the wave it became pitch black. The height of the wave would block out the sun.

I caught one chest high and worked the face. Then I rolled.

Double Header

Had a much better evening session! I'm sure the afternoon nap helped. I rocked my last wave. The waves have been non-stop in Old Orchard today--unusual.

We have demanding jobs. Pat has been working all day. My situation isn't much better. I mean I get called in at 5:00pm on a Sunday.

Late Night, Early Waves

Pat's in town...we celebrate Labor Day on our own schedule. Got home late last night and was out in the water with not much sleep. Balance was shaky this morning as you can see from this video. Gotta love the goofy style though. Caught a couple good waves.

Try To Take Me For A Ride

Seems like everyone is tryin to bamboozle me.

Eugene told me I would have my board by Friday. I left him a message this morning and stopped by at noon. He told me maybe tomorrow.

I had condo meetings during low tide yesterday and today. When others have to work or travel, special arrangements are made. My work hours are low tide.

Eugene calls around five o'clock and tells me my board is ready. I zoomed over and hit some waves at Higgins. They were about head high. I got barrelled when I would turtle. The waves were good. I caught a few nice rides. Pumped I got my board back.

"Try to take me for a ride, I'm not a bad guy, but I'm the funky feel one."

Boardshorts Not Allowed

I went to Higgins, Old Orchard, Camp Ellis, Fortunes Rock, Gooch's, Wells and Ogunquit. Where did I surf--nowhere. I couldn't justify renting a board for the waves or lack thereof.

Beach Croquet at Higgins. The required attire is white. They told me it doesn't matter that it's after Labor Day. Boardshorts are definitely not allowed.

Another Day

Started the day off trapped in the elevator with my board. Once that got straightened out, I headed to Higgins where the waves were paltry. I was in the water with two guidos. I think they may have appeared on the "Jersey Shore".

Shot home and the waves were waist high. Sa--weet!!! Caught some good rides today where just my fin was in the water. I noticed I have a ding in the tail of my board so I've gotta get that fixed. Big Waves coming on Friday.

Tough Crowd

My neighbor/videographer, Ken, told me I only had a few good ones today. That's alright, because I caught one really good ride where I was trimming the wave. I'm not sure how this happens, it just does--and it's awesome.

There have been no waves since Earl. Hurry up Igor, where are you? Magic Seaweed is calling for overhead conditions on Friday. You know what that means...probably waist high. I'll take it.

I've been traveling to different breaks over the past few days hoping for waves with no luck. "Running to something in stages, set me free."

Pathetic Junkie

Pathetic--that's how I'd rate my session tonight. I was awful. I also think I've become a surf junkie. Again there were no waves, but still I find myself looking for a fix.

The only good thing was the crescent moon (blow up the pic and you can see her).

Numb

Ah, that's what I like to see. Things are back to normal. No parking til October 1st. Surfers push the envelope. There was a slew of cars parked on the road. Changing in the street, right beside the beach--the way it should be. I bet you the sign, "No shirt, no shoes, no service" is a result of surfers. Who else doesn't wear shirts and shoes? Maybe bums, but we're one in the same.

Surfers are also foolish. I must have waited at least an hour to come in (I was not gonna paddle). I was praying for a wave. I mean what were we even doing out there. There were absolutely no waves. Toe ticklers at best (made up name)--smaller than small. Yet, I kept going back out.

I had trouble tying down my board and changing was tough. My fingers were numb. Nighttime surfing is getting chilly. I cranked the heat the whole ride home.


Yesterday, the guy at the surf shop asked where I'm surfing next. Every time I go to this shop, Liquid Dreams in Ogunquit, the guy is stoked about my surfing travels and he tells the customers about my Hawaii/California trip. He was real helpful before I went out. Anyway...I told him the Riviera of the East, Long Beach, NY.

Big Night

I had a big night planned. Today is my 6 month anniversary with my baby...I celebrated the only way I knew how. Ride some of her waves. She made me work for each and every one. Playing hard to get. That's alright, I enjoy the chase. At the end, I was surfing in total darkness with about 20 other fools. The things you do for love.

Walking back on the beach, I was throwing shakas and praising the Lord above.

Summer's gone, but surfing's not. Look, no Svetlana. Parking is free again!!! In the second pic you can see the need for the ball-z bag.

Eleventh Street

The waves were head high in Old Orchard but closing out. I watched a bunch of surfers get rocked. I ended up at Eleventh Street--Pine Point. There was a massive cross wind. I caught a few good rides and called it quits. I was spent. Then I ran into Deena on the beach. So I went back out. I was so weary, I didn't catch anything. I couldn't even pop-up my arms were wet noodles. The one time I did get up, my legs gave out. This cat will sleep well tonight.

Waiting On A Friend

"Those who don't believe me, find your souls and set them free,
Those who do, believe and know that time will be your key,
Time and time again I've thanked them for a peace of mind,
That helped me find myself amongst the music and the rhyme"

What can I say...Old Orchard has been sweet to me this week!!! I was in the water today with a guy who talked more than me. I know--hard to believe.

"I'm not waiting on a lady." Danielle already blew me off. "I'm just waiting on a friend." I've invited Earl over for the weekend!

Home Sweet Home

I had a kayak trip planned with Fred today. Looking out my window, I couldn't let the waves pass me by. Old Orchard is great. For the last three days, I have been the only one out there...parking is free and when I catch a ride, the Canadians hoot and holler!

After the surf, we went kayaking. We launched at Marblehead and were gonna paddle to Camp Ellis and return to Marblehead. I was tired. I told Fred, I didn't wanna go back up river. So we took the much longer route. We rode the Saco River to the Atlantic. Fred decided to move up front and put me at the helm. Big Mistake...we just went in circles. Once hitting the Atlantic, we went around the jetty and kayaked into Old Orchard. We passed two seals along the way (real close to our kayak). Not cool. Do you know whose favorite meal is the seal?


Approaching Old Orchard, Fred was debating what side of which set of rocks to come in on (the left or right). I told him we were gonna thread the needle and come in between both sets of rocks. We nailed the entry. Now that's a helmsman!!!

Ice Ice Baby

Iced up my thigh all night long--couldn't miss the morning session you know. Caught a lot of waves today, but did nothing special. Until...My last ride. It was nice. I was working the wave. When I pulled up on shore a grandmother, mother, and three little girls were clapping and said, "that was beautiful!"

Nice Sets

Finally I rocked OOB!!! The sets were coming in nice and deep. About 6 deep and waist to shoulder high. For those of you who know where I live...I was catching waves at the hotel on one side of my building and riding 'em to the house on the other side. That's a good little stretch.

I got tossed hard on one attempt and my skeg hit me in the thigh. I know it doesn't look like much, but I was bleeding and I watched Shark Week. I'm sure I'll have a bruise tomorrow. Anyway, since I was bleeding I caught the next ride out of town!

Just Think

I almost didn't surf tonight. I was sluggish as I woke from my afternoon nap and was considering calling out. I'm glad I didn't...I had my best session yet. I hit the first five waves I chased and rocked 'em all. Wow, "Flying High Again"!!!

Good Things Come To Those Who Wait

Like I told the guys in the line up. "I've been paddling all morning and haven't caught a thing...but once you catch that first ride...it's all good!!!" Man, I paddled at least an hour before I caught a wave. Eventually, I caught three really cool rides. On one, the wave turned to white water and it was like I was shot out of a cannon--real sweet!!!

Went to town hall...they don't handle Scarborough Beach. It is a State Beach/Private Beach so I am gonna write the local Surfriders Foundation to voice my concerns and hopefully institute change.

Fred wants to go kayaking in the afternoon. That's my nap time.

Delivering The Goods

Started the day off at yoga. It's difficult to explain, but yoga is really cool! My teacher is great. She is so soothing and calming. I will miss this yoga class the most when I move to Hawaii!!!

This afternoon, we had a Luau at my Condo. Someone asked, "Hey Big Wave are you making a statement with your hair?" No statement. I don't cut it because I don't have to.

Hit my biggest wave tonight about head high. While dropping into the wave, the front end of my board was bouncing "rat-a-tat-tat" off the face. I didn't do much else other than hit the drop. I had to catch it. There were at least 75 people in the lineup. Once I committed to the wave, I had to own it.

So I figured out tonight...I hit the drop on bigger waves and that's about all I can do because I am anxious. I trim the wave on smaller stuff because there is no drop per se so I can work the wave.

Closeout Sale

It was nasty on the outside, the waves were closing out hard. When it's not nice outside, play inside. I went outside for a little bit and got barrelled so I came inside where the waves were a lot cleaner. I caught a bunch of rides, unlike the lemmings outside. I hit two sweet rides at the end on the night!!!

The parking lot was full. I asked Svetlana, the parking lot attendant, "they have no idea how much money you took in today, do they?" Svetlana looked at me, smiled and said, "how knows?"

I have a beef to take up with Scarborough Beach stemming from my morning session. Everyone at the surf shop loves my idea. I'll fill you in about it on Monday when I go to town hall. Surfer/Activist Big Wave Dave

Surfing Police

See! Higgins Beach has surfing po-po. I was in the water when a Dad with two kids said, "here they come". I told him we had to catch a wave in despite the time. He liked that. We couldn't come in if there was no wave to bring us in. And we waited...

Boogie Wonderland

I went to Higgins where the crowd was too big for waves that were too small. So, I boogied back home to catch some waves. I have to learn that when the waves are good at home--stay home!!! I've been telling myself this for weeks, but I always chase bigger waves. I have to remember...."a bird in hand".

So my neighbor is out on his balcony when I go after my first couple of waves where I pearl and pearl again. To my neighbors, my surfing tales must be like those of Mr. Snuffleupagus. After a couple pearls, I started catching waves. I trimmed the wave twice. I always tell you how fun hitting a drop is...well trimming the wave is really cool. If only I could combine the two.

Kiss It

I catch the first wave I go after. I'm turning right. There's another guy on the wave turning left...we are on a collision course. We both bailed! I'm not sure whose wave it was. I am way too passive in the lineup and was even more so after that. The woman with the little boy's haircut, on the otherhand, is way too aggressive out there.

Alright now I'm standing atop the wave. I begin to lean forward to hit the drop. Wham, I go flying off my board and my face and ribs smack the water at the same time. It felt like I hit a brick wall.

Pine Point

Who's Bummin'? Not me. Deena gets a shoutout!!! She gave me a nice little stretch for my calf. I went to Pine Point. I see the same cats wherever I go. I surfed a few blocks to the right of these pictures where the waves were breaking waist to chest high--good times.

Walking back on the beach, I see a photographer taking pictures of some hotties. I ask what they are shooting. It is the Pearl Girls Calendar. The owner of Pearl tells me I know the girls...funny thing is, I do. I didn't recognize them all dolled up. They took a few shots with my board. If you get the Pearl Girls Calendar--look for my board.

Bummin'

Yesterday, today, and tomorrow are the biggest and best waves of the Season. I tore my calf yesterday while jumping back on my board to paddle out. I can barely walk today. I am bummin' to say the least. The waves are so sweet and I want nothing more than to go out and surf. I went to watch the guys surf at Higgins this morning. They were shredding it on some good-sized waves. So, I'll probably be out of action for Yoga this weekend as well--another bummer. Which leads me to my next thought. In sports it is the end result that counts. For example...Jimmy Connors, Roger Federer, and Monica Seles all have drastically different forehands, but all equally effective. In Iyengar Yoga, however, it is the totality of the form/pose. There is no room for individual expression or freedom, yet you find inner freedom that is truly liberating. Do you know who the best surfer is? The one who has the most fun. So I guess yoga and surfing is a mutualistic relationship. Tight structure and total freedom. I will miss 'em both and be Bummin'.

Head High

I may apply for the surfing forecast position at Magic Sea Weed. These guys are worse than the weatherman. They were calling for double overhead conditions (12 feet).

This morning I hit a 5 foot (shoulder high) drop. Tonight, the conditions were head high to overhead. The waves were powerful and there was a serious undertow. During one turtle roll the wave ripped the board right out of my hands. I was hanging way outside--which took forever(a shorter board is not far off). While trying to bob a wave and avoid it, the wave spun me around and threw me on my belly down the face. It was cool. I was riding my board on my stomach. After a little bit like this, I figured I might as well pop up and still rode it for a good stretch.

Stupid...Crazy...Fun

During the past two days, I have driven six times from Old Orchard to Higgins to Scarborough--passing on the waves at each spot. Tonight I settled on Higgins where the waves were smaller than the ones I have been blowing off (Stupid), but I was itchin'. After the sun had set, I surfed about an hour and a half under the moonlight (Crazy). There were four of us out there and one kayaker. One guy asked how long we could stay out there and I told him this was the latest I had ever been out and continued to explain my "no paddle in" rule. Even after I caught one in, I kept going back out...It was Fun.

On the way home, I got stuck in traffic. In my rear-view mirror, I noticed a display of fireworks. All the while I am listening to Rachmaninov's Piano Concerto #2. From my side-view mirror it was as though I was watching the fireworks in HD. It was mesmerizing.

This picture is taken right after tonight's surf. Crazy...Fun.